It’s impossible not to feel at home while being collected by the same driver, greeted by the same smiling front desk staff and being served by the same waiters in the hotel restaurant as I did during my visit last summer, more than one year ago. Their facial expressions noticeably show that they recognise me. This is certainly a clear sign that all hotel staff are happy where they are. Nicola and Alberto Verdolin who run this family hotel are very professional, responsive and attentive; and I have witnessed how they make personal time for all visiting guests. It is impossible not to feel welcome and well looked after in this hotel.
The Garda Bike Hotel, located in Peschiera at the south of end of the stunning Lake Garda, Italy, specializes in cycling holidays. And certainly, as a cyclist, whether beginner or experienced, you need not worry about a thing. Everything is taken care of for the guests. Every day of the week they have guided tours, a mix of easier and more challenging rides, a mix of flat, scenic, city, vineyard or mountain rides and within those a choice of difficulties or length of the ride. There is an option for all riders. Their guides too are very attentive and knowledgeable and their top priority is safety. Bikes are securely locked away in their dedicated bike room and there is a mechanic on site. They also do bike rental and offer a range of Pinarello bikes including the Dogma F8. Lunch and snacks are provided every day for riders to take on tour and for the longer rides, a van will accompany the riders and carry all necessities as well as taking on board any riders who could potentially have overestimated their abilities on the day. A lunch buffet consisting of post-riding nutrition is open all afternoon for the hungry returning cyclist and the laundry basket is waiting for the drop off of sweaty cycling kits, to be clean and fresh for next morning’s ride. In the late afternoon, a selection of salty snacks are served and if there is a desire for some downtime, resting can be achieved either by the outdoor hotel pool or in the unquestionably comfortable lounge chairs (I am evidence that these can also be used for napping). Undeniably, Garda Bike Hotel has it all covered for the cycling visitor.
This year I have returned to Garda Bike Hotel with a selection of passionate cycling friends who have flown in from London, Copenhagen and Abu Dhabi; a brilliant combination of people responsible for enormous amounts of laughter. We have all joined forces in Lake Garda to ride the first edition of the GranFondo Bike Division Peschiera Del Garda. However, we have arrived some days in advance to make the most of the spectacular scenery around the lake and the vineyards, but mostly to conquer some of the most famous climbs in the surrounding areas of Lake Garda. For many climbing enthusiasts, undoubtedly the Stelvio Pass is one to tick off the list, and so it was for all of us. The excitement for this climb already grew while packing the all-weather cycling gear for this trip. However, it turned out that unfortunately Stelvio at its 2,757m above sea level height was covered in 40cm of snow during our available days. At least, this makes the perfect reason to yet again return for cycling in this area.
With the Stelvio Pass to be missed this time, instead we set off to tackle Monte Baldo, a mountain range in the Italian Alps located in the provinces of Trentino and Verona, peaking at 2,218m above sea level. We have woken up to a beautiful sunny day and we set off on a long day in the saddle. It’s a 50km flat ride to Avio – the base of one side of Monte Baldo. The last 10km of this part is just stunning; we snaked our way through the undisturbed green vineyards on a narrow pathway, with the mountain peeking on the side and clear blue sky rising above. We made a refuelling stop before setting off on the 21.08km climb of 7% average grade with a total of 1,495m of elevation.
In the first couple of kilometres as per usual the riders spread out according to their abilities on the climb and most riders climb pretty much solo. The first 10km or so are covered by trees and as there is a long way to go, it’s all about finding a good sustainable rhythm and pedal stroke. On this day and on this climb, I personally choose to tackle Monte Baldo with comfort and enjoyment. I know I will eventually get to the top and I chose to keep my heart rate and lactic acid under control as well as making space for appreciating my surroundings and views. As the kilometres and switchbacks pass, I peek through the gaps of trees and witness the base slowly disappearing while I rise higher and higher. Every glimpse is increasingly wonderful. There is something very special about viewing our surroundings from above. I have to absorb quickly and snap a photographic picture in my mind as I must keep pedalling. Some parts of this climb increase to 12% average and the pedal strokes become deeper but otherwise it’s a very charming and merciful climb. As we reach 16km into the climb, the landscape flattens and we can regroup and take well deserved fuel and rest. We have now risen above the tree line, the mountain side is open and we receive views over additional mountain ranges in the distance. We must move on further as we all feel the cool mountain air through our damp jerseys. We have another 6km to climb towards the highest point for cyclists. Our guide comforts us with: “Not far to go and it’s almost flat”. It works and we continue with confidence. However, it’s not exactly true. As we pass the bends on the narrow mountain road and see yet another ascension towards the peak, I hear sighs around me — kudos to everyone for completing all 21km of climbing. We start our 35km of descending and we make one easy-to-miss but momentous stop not far from the peak. This is the only small viewpoint over Lake Garda from this side, but it is exceptionally breathtaking. I could have stayed in this spot in a trance all day. Layer after layer of the mountain range fills the space on the other side of the calm and blue Lake Garda. It is like a fairytale. One double espresso later, we continue our descending. 35km, some narrow roads with extra caution and some wide roads with perfect sized bends to go full speed chasing our guide to the bottom.
After 126km, almost six hours and 2000m of climbing, we return back to our temporary home, all feeling a substantial sense of accomplishment.
Our next challenge is the first edition of the 100k GranFondo Bike Division Peschiera Del Garda. The riders gather on the start line, 650 riders due to complete the GranFondo. We arrive in our start box at 8:00 a.m. and our sea blue team from Garda Bike Hotel is clearly visible in the crowd as the largest team of 40 riders. We take off in a sprint start and within minutes the blues are separated. I continue my own race. On the flatter part during the first 36km, I race strongly and jump from wheel to wheel to keep the pace high while preserving energy. At 36km we hit a 4km climb and as climbing is my weakness, I feel myself sliding backwards in the crowd while I am being overtaken by too many people of all ages. As I reach the top, I settle back in with a smaller group of guys and I notice two younger guys pulling us along. I follow as they take a right turn at a split section and I fuel for the next challenge, the biggest climb of 12km of elevation. 10km later I am still waiting for that climb. Something is wrong. Where is it? I look around, there are no mountain sides besides us. I check in with the young guys. They are riding the Corto, which is only 75km and has four smaller climbs instead of the big one. OMG. I have gone the wrong way! Okay, in that moment, I am deeply disappointed that I won’t complete the GranFondo and equally not being a great climber, I am not utterly upset to miss the climbing under pressure. Instead I take the front of our group and power through the flat sections with the train of riders behind. That feels good, at least. I cross the finish line before my friends and the rest of the blue team riding the full 100K GranFondo and cheer for them as they pass our hotel, less than 1km from the finish line. As we all reunite in the hotel bar and experiences are exchanged, it is evident that everyone had a great time and each their own personal story. Everyone agreed that the course is fantastic as there is something for all abilities. A varied course, with flat and fast sections, undulated terrain with small bumps and both shorter and longer climbs; something to both challenge and satisfy each individual rider.
We leave the hotel enriched with more adventures and experiences in our personal cycling stories, more kilometres and elevation meters in our legs, new friendships, family and endless laughter. Before taking off for our respective city lives, we all agree to make this an annual event. See you in 2016.
Words By: Helle Bachofen von Echt
Photos By: Roland Magon
