At age 64, Ernest Meili decided to take an unprecedented journey; the journey of a lifetime. When Ernest told his friends about his plans, some thought he had gone completely mad, others, the more adventurous ones, were able to understand the motivation to embark on such a unique quest.
His family, on the other hand, couldn’t fathom why someone would take such a risk. Unassisted by any formal means, using a borrowed Dagger touring kayak, Ernest Meili had decided to Kayak the entire 1,900km coastline of Oman.
The entire trip took a total of 57 days, broken into three sections, over a total of two years. I was fascinated with Ernest’s story when I first heard it and decided that it was too great and far too inspirational not to share. Ernest has since moved back to Canada but was kind enough to answer some questions for me so that I can share his story with you.
What was your initial plan for this incredible journey? Did it change over the course of the journey?
“It is very rare in life to be presented with an opportunity to accept an outdoor adventure challenge that has not previously been met. I found the temptation simply too strong to resist, especially as it was an unusual time in my life when I had no commitments that couldn’t wait a bit. The fact that my wife was fully supportive of my decision was a huge benefit; I knew that in some ways it would be more difficult for her being in Muscat wondering about my safety. My original plan was to start the journey from the Muscat area in April 2009, and travel south in shorter segments so I could build up my strength, both for endurance and the ability I knew would be required to cover longer stretches with limited and difficult landing options. This worked well until the temperatures climbed into the high 40’s and low 50’s in late May when I reached the Sur area, making it no longer bearable to be out in the water all day. The decision was then made to get back on the water in the fall as soon as possible after my return from a summer vacation in cooler Canada, although the temptation was too great and I was back paddling in June.”
What were your favorite moments?
“Long stretches in comfortably manageable conditions when I could settle into a steady rhythm and feel being a part of the sublime marine environment, soaking in the landscape, warm air and fresh ocean breeze. The occasions when my path crossed that of dolphins, turtles and the abundance of birds and fish. Times spent experiencing the remarkable hospitality of the Omani people who fish on these waters and live along these shores; I loved the time spent with them and their families hearing their stories and the opportunity to see the faces etched by the hard life many experience making a living by battling nature every day to obtain their catches and bring them to the market.”
What were your scariest moments?
“Landings were often frightening as it was difficult to determine from out on the water what was in store once the decision was made to come to shore. Once you start riding the waves in there is no chance to reconsider – this was sometimes thrilling if I could ride a nice wave to shore, and sometimes infuriating if I grounded on sand or gravel and needed to haul my boat a long way inland for a safe campsite. The worst of these landings resulted in a severe crash when a huge wave drove me headlong into a steep sand bank between Sharbitat and Shuwaymiyah near Ras Mutaykaf. I ended up out of the kayak, badly bruised, with gear lying all over the place, a few things missing and everything full of sand. Getting back through that surf took a couple of attempts as the waves constantly knocked me back, as they typically do in heavy surf along the wave line. It was also pretty scary at times when winds would strengthen quickly building up the sea, particularly when I was well out from shore and far from any possible landings.”
Tell me about your longest day
“A total of 19 hours near Shuwaymiyah on 15th of December from 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. on the following morning, a distance of about 60km. I ended up traveling in the dark, judging the rugged shoreline by the sound and feel of the refractory waves bouncing off the cliffs. “
How did you get to and from your start/ finish points?
“This was an adventure in itself, as I had to rely heavily on the kindness of strangers as well as my wits to get back to my trusty Galloper at the end of each segment. On occasion I was offered free transportation once I explained my need to get back to a particular location. Other times it involved paying a local resident to use his truck, paying a taxi or hitchhiking. Some of the most remarkable and often hilarious moments occurred when I was able to convince the driver to load the kayak on his truck, so I wouldn’t have to drive back to pick up the kayak and contents later. The fact that I was able to do this when necessary proved how totally trustworthy the Omani people are, as nothing was ever touched.”
Did you ever want to quit? What kept you going?
“Definitely! Particularly at Ras Madrakah, where on two occasions I was rebuffed by storms and wild conditions and had to make the 20-hour round trip before the sea was tame enough for me to finally brave a launch, knowing full well that my next landing would have to be on a totally isolated beach through difficult surf! Personal pride played a major role in keeping me motivated, both because I had made the commitment to myself and because I knew I would regret it forever if I didn’t complete the task. Also the fact that so many people, particularly my wife, as well as Lamees Daar and the staff at the Environment Society of Oman, who had worked so hard to provide sponsorship, believed in me and encouraged me to continue.”
Did you have a favorite area on the coastline?
“Although there were so many truly remarkable coastal cliffs and beaches where the sheer beauty took my breath away, there is no doubt that the fjords of the Musandam top the list; nowhere else can you experience such coastal variety over a relatively short distance.”
Looking back, what are your feelings about the journey now?
“ I feel totally thankful and privileged for having had the experience and for the fact I was fortunate enough to have completed the journey unscathed; it has left me with a deep level of personal satisfaction and a much greater appreciation for the natural world and the beautiful people who shared it with me over those many days.”
What advice would you give to someone else attempting a similar journey?
“First, just do it if they have the inclination, as I’m certain they won’t regret the decision. It would also have enhanced the experience considerably if I had taken the time to learn more Arabic, as I often regretted the inability to hear more of the regional lore and the individual tales. Obtain the proper authorizations from the government; I had some difficult interactions with local authorities, who on three separate occasions attempted to force me to halt my expedition.”
Are you planning any other big trips in the future?
“Not at the moment as I have focused on family life in Canada, although I still hope to complete the second half of an 11,000km bicycle journey across Canada; the first part of which I did a few years ago. Other than that, as I approach 70, I think I will have to set shorter goals.”
Why did you decide to do this journey along the coast of Oman?
“This was my fifth year in the country, a period in which I had fortunate opportunities to explore many of the spectacular coastal areas of this magnificent country on paddling, camping, hiking, snorkeling and sailing trips. These experiences sparked my imagination as
to what wonders might lay in those many regions we couldn’t reach on wheels, but only by sea. “
Had you ever done anything like this before?
“I had previously enjoyed several challenging kayak expeditions, some solo and some with either my wife or friends, on the rivers, lakes and coastal waters of Canada. None of these outings had extended longer than a couple of weeks, so this was definitely a huge leap into the untested for my body and mind.”
How many years have you been kayaking for? What first got you interested in kayaking?
“If I remember correctly, it was the summer of 1995 when I first slipped into a kayak and that in an entirely unplanned way. My brother-in-law had signed up for a racing kayak course on our local river, only to find his rather oversize physique wasn’t at all suited to support the craft . Beatrice suggested that I complete the course as it was already paid for and the rest was history as I immediately fell in love with the thrill of the sport.”
Tell more about your favorite interaction(s) with the locals
“This question is challenging as there were so many, many occasions when the kindness and generosity of the Omani citizens contributed so greatly to what made this
journey so phenomenal and at times provided a safe passage when my life was in peril. I have fond memories of the moments when curious fishermen would motor up to me full of questions about why I was there and about the boat itself, always compelling me to share their fish and offering water. Following are three perfect examples of how important this generous spirit was to the success of this journey Once just past Telegraph Island in Musandam when a gentleman and his sons
helped me portage my kayak and gear up a long, steep ridge, over a rocky, crevassed plateau and then sharply back down an incline through a field of boulders to a drop off back into the ocean. Throughout the difficult traverse and sweaty labor, they laughed and joked, even stopping as we passed their home to share a hearty breakfast. Without their help, this would have taken me at least one full day, rather than a few hours!”
“Typical of the selfless Omani character is the way Sheikh Shiliwah opened his home to me on the several stops I had to make in the Ras Madrakah area, inviting in friends and family for a generous feast, making sure there was someone in the group who could speak English well enough that we could share our stories. Their description of the conditions and landing ahead were invaluable in my planning. Like many others along the way they also helped arrange shuttle rides back to my truck.
“The closest friendship that developed was with Mohammed Al Mamari, who I accidentally encountered while camping on the beach on the edge of the village of Taqah. We stayed in regular contact throughout my travels along the rugged coast spreading from Lakbi south; on three separate occasions, he arranged water transport on fishing boats, shuttling me to safety for a night’s rest before being returned back to where I had left off to start another day, one of those nights was even spent on a fishing trawler where I was treated to a lobster feast!”
Published in November 2012
