Whilst Bali’s image might have been tarnished of late due to the growth of mass tourism and the continuing development of resorts along the coast, Ubud has always intrigued me; although popularised by ‘Eat, Pray, Love’, it seemed the perfect place to spend a couple of days before heading to the more unspoilt Indonesian island of Lombok.
I decided to pay a flying visit to Ubud in order to relax and unwind after a couple of hectic months. I was also keen to investigate the various restaurants offering vegan food, and to attend a couple of yoga classes. Two days would of course not be enough time to see everything, but I had every intention of just soaking up the atmosphere, rather than rushing round trying to tick boxes of all the ‘must sees’.
I was travelling solo, which excited me, as it was a long time since I had felt the rush of having only myself to rely on in a new and unfamiliar place. An eight hour night flight awaited me on the Saturday evening, and I touched down in Jakarta early the following Sunday morning. Jakarta is three hours ahead of Dubai time, with Bali being an extra hour ahead of that. I had no intention of staying in Jakarta, and had booked the next available Air Asia flight from there to Denpasar. This involved a change of terminal at Jakarta airport, which was very simple. After paying $25 for a tourist visa, I collected my bag, exited terminal 2 and jumped on the free yellow shuttle bus to take me to terminal 3.
Well, terminal 3 left A LOT to be desired (as I had expected), and I did what I usually do when arriving somewhere strange and new: I went to the only familiar thing I could see, a Starbucks. As a rule I do eat the local cuisine when I’m visiting a different country, but airports aren’t the best place to sample new foods, plus I was in desperate need for a latte! A large one. With vanilla syrup. Oh yes.
Whiling away the time by writing in my book, it was soon time to board my flight to Denpasar, Bali. A short one hour and 45 minutes later, I was ready to fully embrace Indonesia!
Getting there…and time to relax!
I had already done some research into how to get from the airport to Ubud, and knew that it was going to be relatively straightforward. I simply went to the taxi station and gave my destination, and was told that I could pay the 270,000 IDR upon arrival at my destination. Despite it being an hour and a half away, I was surprised to discover that by distance it was only a mere 50km from the airport. This was explained by the roads – all long and winding, littered with multiple scooters that made it impossible to travel very fast. As I battled travel sickness sat in the back, I was relieved to make the trip in just over an hour.
I stayed at Sungu Resort and Spa, which was a little way out of the main part of town. A free shuttle bus was offered (approximately a 5 minute drive), or it was a 20 to 30 minute walk from Ubud town center, with some narrow winding roads and no footpath. The resort included breakfast, and I stayed in one of the most basic rooms, which still proved good value for money. A huge selling point for me was the outdoor bathroom! A large bed was surrounded by a mosquito net, which the hotel staff put down each evening when I was out. Free wifi was just about accessible from my room, and the hotel grounds were relaxing – just what I needed.
Relaxing in the room, I went to have a late lunch in the restaurant. The food was delicious and all the staff were incredibly friendly. I took the free shuttle into Ubud that evening for a walk. Despite being alone, I did not feel unsafe at any time, and noticed that there were many foreigners, both solo and in mixed groups. After eating dinner, I popped into the local shop for some water and asked them to call the hotel for me to pick me up in the shuttle. After this, it was time for bed and a much needed sleep!
A perfect day of exploration and yoga
The following morning, I woke early to walk the rice paddies that surround Ubud. I was amazed to discover that these were a mere stone’s throw away from the bustling streets that twisted their way through the town. It was as if I had immediately been transported somewhere else, as field upon field unfolded, dotted with farmers, and the skyline punctuated by hills and mountains. Traversing the fields, I was able to spot the young rice, and marvelled at the reflections of the unique houses in the murky water.
After a quick breakfast (ok maybe not that quick, I recall it containing about 3 cups of Balinese coffee), I made my way to the Monkey Forest on foot. I’m not the biggest fan of monkeys, but it seemed like a good chance to do some wildlife photography and hopefully come away with some decent pictures. From the monkey forest, I made my way to the Yoga Barn, an amazing yoga centre/retreat, and signed up for two classes that day: Introduction to Ashtanga and Yin yoga. The first class was outside in a covered area, and the second class downstairs in a room with large, sliding windows. I certainly wished that I had applied my mosquito repellent for the second class, as dusk fell and I could feel myself being bitten by the little critters!
Between classes, I ate fabulous healthy food at the restaurant, and I soon wished that I had stayed in the Yoga Barn’s accommodation so that I could practice yoga each day! There was certainly a feeling of peace, and strangers became friends over raw vegan food and sun salutations.
Reluctantly, I made my way back through town in order to prepare for my early morning 30 minute flight to Lombok. Feeling refreshed and relaxed (and rather flexible!) I was in the perfect frame of mind to continue the holiday on Bali’s unspoilt sister island.
Words + Photos By: Rachael Bruford
