Covering a crazy distance of 50,000 km whilst exploring 39 amazing countries, Tamin Lee-Connolly has set her goals on volunteering with OLPC (One laptop per child) organisation to help deliver laptops, training, and internet access to school and increase chances of continued higher education to those that don’t have it.
As Tamin continues her journey through Africa, Outdoor UAE will be helping to document parts of her Travel Diary; more can be found out on her blog or through Outdoor UAE detailed below:
Pemba at last
07/26/2011
“What a disaster the border was. Even after being warned by friends and family we still had money stolen from us as well as being fined 1km into Mozambique. Not a good start to the trip. I blame it on a penny I picked up off the ground earlier in the day. I thought picking up a penny was meant to give you good luck? Well it gave me the worst luck ever. Out the window it went.
Due to all our hassles we were running out of time and nightfall was near. We had heard about a place called Tan’n Biki on Macaneta Island, 33km north of Maputo. Convinced we could make it we called and informed the owner Lester. He gave us clear directions and then met us at the car ferry so we could follow him to the campsite. I would really like to emphasize what a nice guy Lester and his team were. In the morning he checked through my vehicle and chatted away about all precautions we must take on our travels.
Next stop Ponte Zavora, about 75km before Inhambane. Again we arrived at nightfall… we have got to stop this. It was our first night of setting the whole campsite up. Enthusiastically we were up at 6am and ready to go.
In Inhambane we tried to sort out the internet connections and be able to communicate with the outside world. A success, finally someone who spoke English and got us all sorted.
An easy day of driving with roads all in good condition we made it to Morrungula camp at 3.30pm. What a joy, we set up camp which was now only taking about 20 minutes and then off to the beach for a stroll to watch the sunset. What a great campsite with clean bathrooms and grass lawns. The staff were very friendly with constant smiles on their faces. This has been the general attitude of Mozambicans we have met; obviously besides our first encounter at the border.
Waking up at first break of daylight, Justine and I went for our run along the hard sand, what a change from the soft sand at Tan’n Biki. So fresh and rearing to go we packed up and headed for the tourist town Vilanculos. Jeroen, ahead as usual, called to give us the destination for lunch at the Veranda Restaurant. A little sand track was a minor challenge compared to what happened next.
After lunch Jeroens‘s GPS recommended we take a deep sand track to Inhassaro where we decided we would rest for the night. Seeing as it was still early in the day and we only had to travel 60km, we opted for the more adventurous route. As we begun our journey the GPS was actually right and the sand was very deep and Jeroen was pushing his bike through the sand rather than riding. His first fall of the trip was on this little stretch. Low and behold, the sand didn‘t calm down or become more compacted but instead got worse and worse. Jeroen‘s first fall turned into several more. The poor guy had to strip his bike down of any extra weight and dig him-self out. We decided to rather turn around and backtrack the 5km we had already accomplished rather than battling through another 50km of the torturous road for the KTM motorbike. However, I was impressed with Maggie (my zooped up Land Cruiser) for gliding through the sand without tyre deflation.
After reaching Vilanculos again and now heading to Inhassorro on a more sensible potholed tarred highway EN1, we reached Inhassoro at 4.30pm and followed the first sign – Estella de Mananisse campsite. Welcomed by the owner Henry who showed us around his newly developed lodge and campsite, he showed us our spot next to our own ablution block with hot water and then pointed us in the direction of the bar across the road.
We met a group of people here and I asked for any advice of where to stay further up north. Not much information was known but was a great night with many laughs and Andrew (a cattle farmer) was highly entertaining.
A late start, we eventually got ourselves on the road at 10:00AM. We headed to Gorongosa National Park to go and see some wildlife. However, when we reached the National Park at 5pm, it was already too dark and they would not allow the motor-bike in. Luckily there was a private campsite just down the road. It‘s a very interesting set up; Piet and his wife have with their four children. His son Sakkie had started the campsite but is still awaiting paper work and authorization to advertise legally. You can stay there and contribute a donation.
In the morning we got chatting and he informed me of a school just down the road which has the XO laptops and what a shame that no one has ever given them training, etc.
So I was off on my first mission following Piets directions into the bush. Down a seriously tiny little track, about 20km later, we headed straight into the school. I met up with Frank who showed me around his vegetable patch that he was very proud of. With broken English he understood what my goal was and he explained that the main problem was that they couldn‘t charge the laptops. Yes, they have two massive solar panels but only one in-verter that charges four laptops at a time. The school has 50 laptops and can‘t use them interactively in class due to this problem. So are the laptops being used to their full potential? So far, from the Soweto project in Kliptown and my first project in Mozambique, I am not happy with what I am seeing.
Back on track and on our way to Nicuadala, we discovered that there was nowhere to stay. Eventually after Jeroen searched and Justine and I not finding anything, we asked a lady in a shop where we could stay. She was very happy to show us to the courtyard behind the shop. It was our first night staying in a random open space and not in a campsite. They were so friendly and helpful and made us feel very comfortable. No one in the village hassled us in any way.
In the morning we continued to head further north to Nampula. On the way we passed through some old colonial towns with interesting architecture before hitting a dirt track. It was not in the best condition and our thoughts were all the same; will we make Nampula tonight? We did and in good time too as the dirt track ended after 30km onto a brand new highway. What a pleasure driving on a nice new road.
Here is where we met our first other overlanders. Ven and Anita who had been travelling from England- what chilled out down to earth folks. Ven gave me all his tracks and even a program he designed to access Google maps offline. What a legend!!!
We woke up bright and early and I just wanted to get going, so no run yet again for Justine and I. Eventually I barked orders to Jeroen and Justine to get their bums in gear so we could get to Pemba nice and early. We arrived just after 2pm and enjoyed some sun and cold beers. Hooray!!! My first goal of getting here has finally been achieved.
Last leg of Mozambique
Pemba to Malawi was interesting. Against everyone‘s advice that we met at Pemba Dive and Bush Camp, I still decided that I wanted to take the challenging route. I am very stubborn and I didn’t want to have to travel the same road that we had already been on.
So the road began on a beautiful tar road, then a big dust road with road works on, which then came to an end and thus began the ―crazy road! More like an African track! I had so much fun on this road, battling through thick soft sand, to muddy patches and crossing log bridges. Anyone with a 4×4 and some off road experience will succeed on this road.
We finally arrived after 7 hours at Marrupa and stayed at a Mozambican‘s campsite. I would like to make a note that this campsite was on a slope so no flat land for the campers. Bright an early Justine bellowed for us to get up and going, she had had enough as we did not sleep very well with the roosters cackling all night.
On our way towards the Malawian border we stopped off for lunch in Lichinga where we met three game rangers who work on a hunting concession farm. They made a call and got us a bed to sleep in at Mandimba (Mozambican & Malawian border town). We stayed with a couple, Papa Joe and Anita. They have been through a hard time but things were looking good and Joe just got a job so we celebrated with them. We wish nothing but the best for these two and are very grateful for their hospitality and support.
The next morning it was through the border easily, with no hassles and no charge for a visa.
