Now that we are just beyond the start of the off-road season, it seemed like the right time to emphasise and encourage the carrying of, what many people view as, the minimum recovery equipment when you venture into the dunes. If you’ve been reading the serialisation of my guidebook, you’ll know that this has been covered briefly, but what I wanted to do here is to go into it in a bit more detail and explain the rationale behind the equipment recommended. But, just so you’re forewarned, this article is not about vehicle recovery techniques.
The basis of the equipment included in this article is that stipulated by ME4x4 and some extras from my own experience. This article is not aimed at those who are off-road regulars but more at those who are just starting out or others who may think they need a little guidance.
The ME4x4 list consists of the following:
Recovery/Snatch Strap (rated), 2 Shackles (rated), Tyre Pressure Gauge, Shovel, Work Gloves and a Jacking Board.
I would also add to this list a Fire Extinguisher.
Ok, let’s look at each in turn.
Recovery/Snatch Strap (rated). The first thing to be stated is that a tow strap is NOT a recovery/snatch strap. Recovery straps purposely have a degree of stretch built into them. This allows for the progressive passage of the kinetic energy that the pulling vehicle creates, through the strap, to the vehicle being pulled. If there was only a very small degree of stretch in the strap, as in a tow strap, then vehicle recovery points and/or the shackles attaching the strap to the vehicle would be put under excessive strain and may, consequently, break. This can be deadly to recoverer, recoveree and any onlookers, as the shackles or vehicle recovery points may be thrown with excessive force through windscreens and into any bodies within range. The suggested minimum rating on a recovery/snatch strap is 8,000kg. These are available in the reputable shops in the region.
Shackles (rated). When you buy your shackles ensure that they have a rating of at least 3.25 tonnnes and that this is clearly visible on the shackle body. Shackles without these ratings on them should be avoided. Ensure that the shackles fit through the hook/loop or hole of your recovery points, both front and rear. It is usually the case that we buy metal shackles of the ‘U’ shape with a screw across the bottom of the ‘U’. These are generally reliable and safe but can be deadly if they, or the recovery point break, and are flung off the end of a recovery strap. What more and more off-roaders use now are what are known as ‘soft shackles’. These originate from sailing and are made of an extremely strong, man made rope known as ‘dyneema’. Though I do carry metal shackles as spares, I carry two 5 tonne soft-shackles for all my recoveries. They are safer, stronger and certainly less lethal at the end of a snapped recovery strap.
Tyre Pressure Gauge. When we venture into the dunes we need to deflate our tyres in order to increase the foot-print of the tyre and thus decrease the pressure per square centimetre that the tyre exerts on the sand. We really shouldn’t guess what the pressure is after pressing in the valve stem and letting out some air. We really ought to know exactly what the tyre’s pressure is. Without a gauge there is a danger that you either let out too much air, and run the risk of a tyre coming off the rim, or you don’t let out enough and risk getting stuck. There are a myriad of pressure gauges on the market, both mechanical and electronic. My personal preference is for one that allows me to deflate the tyre while at the same time being able to know what the pressure is. This allows me to control, accurately, the process of deflation (others may wish to purchase specific tyre deflators that are able to be set at a certain pressure for this purpose). I do also carry an electronic tyre pressure gauge that allows me check my tyre pressures at any stage and which is particularly useful when re-inflating back to road pressures (my experience of air-compressor gauges is that they can be wildly inaccurate, both the portable and fixed type).
Shovel. Yes, a shovel, not a spade. When we’re stuck in the sand the last thing we want to face is prolonging the process of digging ourselves out due to the fact that we’re using a small spade that shifts a cup full of sand each time. Let me say it now; those small folding spades are practically useless and are just the thing to make you wish you’d brought a shovel when it’s 40+ degrees and you’re stuck. Get a lightweight shovel with a large head. Try it out in the shop for lightness and ease of use. Make sure you can store it in an easily accessible place in your vehicle; you will be needing it.
Work Gloves. Cars get hot, the sand gets hot, engines compartments get very hot, recovery gear gets hot. Gloves protect you from all the above. Get a good, hard wearing pair that fit you well and allow good dexterity. You need to be able to reach into hot engine bays and in and near glowing exhausts without turning yourself into a burns casualty. If you’re using a winch, particularly those with a metal cable, then gloves are a must, to protect your from stray strands of metal wire and revolving winch drums and snatch blocks.
Jacking Board. If you’ve ever had the misfortune to have a shredded or irreparably punctured tyre, or have a tyre come off the rim, in the dunes and didn’t have a jacking board, you’ll know full well of the need to carry one. The jacking board is there to support the part of the vehicle that you are jacking up and to stop the jack from sinking, ever deeper, into the sand. Thus, the jacking board needs to be strong enough to support the weight of the corner of the car being raised. The recommended type of jacking board is one made of strong ply wood, about 3cm thick and about 45cm square. You’ll need to position it under the axle being raised, as level as possible and on top of an area of flattened sand. Put your jack on it and then carry on as you normally would when jacking the car. It’s also advisable to chock one of the wheels on the axle not being raised in order to stop the vehicle moving as you jack it up.
Fire Extinguisher. Hopefully the need for an explanation as to why you should carry a fire extinguisher would be pointless to any reader and a statement of the blindingly obvious. Cars catch fire. They are more susceptible to catching fire when they are being worked hard off-road, where there is a danger of hoses and pipes being dislodged, leaking engines being at unusual angles and dripping inflammable fluids onto hot exhausts etc… So, please, pretty please with knobs on, carry a fire extinguisher, know how to get it out of your vehicle, know how to use it and, most importantly, check it is in working condition.
Further Equipment. As I said at the beginning, this article is all about the ‘minimum’ amount of recovery equipment you should carry. If you do carry it, there are not many situations from which you could not extract yourselves if stuck and having only this equipment with you. There are plenty of other items that you may wish to consider, such as windscreen hammers, seat-belt cutters, waffles boards, sand shoes, portable compressors, winches, etc… But, for most of us, who only occasionally venture into the dunes, the extra expense of this additional equipment is not necessarily worth it.
A final plea. Don’t let the first time you use this equipment be when you’re stuck. Try it out at home, make sure it fits your vehicle, that you can store it in the vehicle and that you are familiar with how it all fits together and how it works. Make sure you know where your jack is stored, how to get it out, how it works and that it does work, as well as ensuring that your wheel removal spanner is in the vehicle and that it fits the wheels nuts. This will all ensure that your travels off-road are a dream rather than a nightmare.
