The name “Snake Gorge” conjures up exciting images in the mind’s eye,like a scene out of an Indiana Jones or Tomb Raider movie. Aptly named for the winding, slithering path it cuts through the Al Hajar Mountains, this canyon offers several adventures that do not disappoint.
On our most recent trip, my wife, I and a few friends decided to undertake “Big Snake Gorge”, a three to four hour journey depending of the fitness and experience level of the group. The night before our venture I checked the weather online to ensure there was no chance of rain as flash floods in this canyon have taken many lives over the years and under no circumstance should the canyon be attempted if there is any hint or possibility of rain.
In the morning, we departed from Muscat and drove west towards the village of Rustaq, turning off the main highway towards the village of At Tikhah. We continued another 25 minutes down this dirt track until we reached the end of the canyon. Total drive time from Muscat was just over two hours. We left one vehicle at the bottom of the canyon and shuttled everyone to the starting point, which is about a ten minute drive up beyond the tiny village of Az Zammah. From the parking area it’s about five minutes to the first pool, where the adventure really begins!
The first pool is approximately a six meter jump into a deep body of water. Once committed there is no turning back as climbing back up the smooth algae covered rock is 
near impossible unless you put ropes in place. This was my third time through the canyon and,as always at the first pool, I hesitate. I search the sky for any sign of clouds or rain, peer through the emerald green water below for assurance of its depth, then take a deep breath and step over the edge. Once the first plunge is taken, the journey that follows is one of dramatic and breathtaking scenery. The walls of the canyon reach beyond 80 meters in places and can be so close together in areas that you can touch both sides at the same time. Floods have carved out this canyon for thousands of years and smoothed away the rock walls, exposing all the colors of the layers underneath.
We continued to hike, climb, jump and slide our way through the rest of the canyon. We found plenty of places to stop for pictures or to climb back up to jump into one of the pools again or go back down one of the many natural water slides. We passed small waterfalls, and as we neared the end, we arrived at the cave. Over 30 meters long and residence to a colony of bats,the cave is certainly one of the highlights of the gorge. You must swim the entire distance, and as you enter, you can just make out the light of the exit on the far end. Swimming through, you see the stalactite formations overhead, and if you bring a waterproof light, you can make out the bats sleeping among them. Beyond the cave, there are a few more pools to jump, slide and swim through before the canyon widens into a larger valley near the end. From there it’s a short 15 minute hike back to the car that we left at the bottom.
Snake Gorge is definitely one of my favorite treks in Oman and can be accomplished by almost anyone if they have an experienced guide. Trips through the canyon can be booked with many of the local guiding companies in Muscat. The best time of year to go is April until November; the gorge is accessible year round but, as most of the hike is in the shade, the temperatures can be quite cool in the winter months requiring a wetsuit to stay warm. If you’re looking for something more adventurous,the canyon can be accessed further up where a 40 meter abseil is required during a portion of the trek. Along the road in is “little snake canyon”, which is a shorter route with some pools for swimming and jumping.
If you want something totally different, Snake Gorge also has a Via Ferrata offering explorers a place to climb across the cliffs and zip over the canyon with the same spectacular views from a more frightening angle! If you undertake this weekend adventure, don’t forget you are hiking through a wadi where the water levels can vary greatly. You need to be prepared to test the water depth before jumping and keep an eye on the weather. It’s always more fun when everyone finishes with no broken bones! As we like to say in Canada, get out there, have fun and “keep your stick on the ice.”
Published in October 2012
