Once upon a time, all my holidays tended to be about fun in the sun, partying in exotic places or indulging in retail therapy in the world’s greatest cities. Of course, the trips on the piste in the Alps or stateside as well as the odd big mountain climb featured but generally, holidays were more about chilling with a cocktail rather than charging up a mountain.
Then something happened. I discovered the joys of running events in far flung corners, opportunities to really escape the tourist trail and delight in running free on trails where life seems to stand still, where villages are steeped in history, where the ravaged faces of villagers tell a thousand tales.
These events have taken me from the citylights of Singapore (so I could combine with my little sister’s 30th birthday party), the lakeside of Balaton in Hungary (a perfect opportunity to have a city hop in Budapest with my mum afterwards), the trails on the outskirts of Paris (enter – girly trip with muchosvino and shopping) and many, many more … including Nepal, where I sometimes wonder whether I should have a KTM-based pied-a-terre.
Last month, my running adventures took me to Lijiang in the far west of China. In the heart of Shangri-La and near the border of
Tibet, Lijiang is possibly the world’s coolest town. I wasn’t sure what to expect. With our capacity to share and access information and the sheer amount we all travel, few places left us surprised or remained with a secret. Lijiang however, is an exception, with the old town being possibly the most charming place I have ever discovered;a true treasure.
Sitting on the banks of the Jinsha River, Lijiang is home to a handful of tribes but in particular, the Naxi people. The town, sitting at 2,400m, has a history going back 800 years or so and is a UNESCO Heritage Site. The old town is basically a giant maze of gorgeously narrow streets surrounded by tree-covered, snow-capped mountains. With it’s waterways and bridges, quaint shop houses and colourful stalls, funky cafes and bijou bars, this is one place where you could wander the streets for hours and never get bored.
DAY 0
Getting to the start line alone was a mission. I had a night to rest after flying into HK from DXB then the morning after, a taxi / MTR / limo later we arrived over the Chinese border at the airport in Shenzhen. Around seven hours (yes SEVEN HOURS) later we finally bordered the plane to Kunming and from there, boarded another plane to Lijiang. We arrived late, falling into bed, gone midnight with only a few hours to sleep before rising again for the onward journey to the race start. Brutal … but I guess it’s their very remoteness that makes these events so special.
DAY 1
On Day 1, we started running at around 2,800m so from the very first click, you could feel your lungs fighting to absorb the thin air … it’s like running with a sock in your mouth for anyone not acquainted with altitude. For the next six hours or so, I was just full throttle up and down majestic mountains, awesome ascents and demon descents. The countryside was stunning with wide open plateaus, dense pine needle forests, windy dirt trails and quaint villages where life just seems to stand still and the villagers were all out, less to cheer us on and more in wonder at what on earth we were doing! It was a magical day and we finished it, sitting around the super cool Sean’s Guest House … eating, chatting and laughing, eating, chatting and laughing.
DAY 2
Day 2 was the same again. I started with a problematic Achilles tendonitis strapped up so tightly I could barely move so a few 
clicks in, out came the scissors from my pack and after setting myself free, I could run like Forrest Gump once more. A top up of Vitamin also helped ease the throbbing pain. Day 2 was longer but less technical and with less elevation so we all finished in similar times to the day before. Again, another avo and evening ensued of fabulous company from old and new friends. I love the people you meet at events like these … a melting pot of nationalities, career choices, backgrounds, ages and stages … all bound by a shared love of personal adventure, physical challenge and for making the most of our days.
DAY 3
Day 3 was the final stretch … a gradual incline to 3,200m then a steep decline through a tough and technical pine needle forest. My legs were screaming at the start but once I got going, I got into my flow and felt I could run forever. We finished at the side of a gorgeous lake and I could see in the distance, the few runners ahead of me already stretching their limbs, sipping beers and sharing their tales of the day. We lunched, we drank, awards were awarded and photos were captured. We then boarded the buses back to Lijiang for hot showers and rest before doing our best to clear the wine cellar at the Banyan Tree bar.
From start to finish
The entire event was fabulous from start to finish, the logistics, organisation, route markings and accommodation all second to none.Organised by Action Asia that ran no end of adventure events in Hong Kong and a handful of fantastic multi-day trips throughout the year, this was a 100km ultra with a lot of mountains to climb. There was also a 60km option for those without a few screws loose!
As for the location of this event, my initial expectation of endless rice paddies was fast replaced with mammoth mountains, deep blue lakes, dense forests, quaint villages, dramatic ridges with sheer drops to one side and snow-capped peaks to the other. Spectacular!
On the final morning, before going our separate ways,we talked about whatto do next. We all agreed that trips like these, amazing adventures in awe-inspiring places, that are the perfect backdrop to point us in the right direction and help us choose which trail to take next. So on that note, Outdoor UAE readers, here’s to those trails. May they always hand us a generous serving of fun, adventure, camaraderie, physical challenge and spiritual enlightenment.
Love Tori x
Published in June 2012
