Words + Photos By: Antonio Varcasia, Enrico Ghedini and Daniele Macis
Three anglers take a trip down the sailfish capital of the world, the Pacific Coast of Guatemala. In the second part of their adventure, they further explore the country.
How and where
Pacific Fins fishing begins a few miles from the coast, and once the boat is out, every captain choose where and how to fish, much of the strategy has been planned in the briefing that Niels Erichsen held in the evening or early morning with all the captains. Three variables are taken into consideration: water quality, type and intensity of the current, and finally the reports of other boats and the historic catch in the last days of fishing.
The first is an example of how the technology can come to the aid of fishing, acquiring forecasts on the temperature and especially on the concentration of chlorophyll; the optimum temperature range is between 26-30°C, below this threshold is difficult given that we are still in Central America. Temperatures above these rates can be found and it’s something that really makes the fish lazy and idle (so, they simply go away in more fresh waters!). Chlorophyll concentration is determined by the flow of water from rivers as a result of the rains, both locally and driven by neighbouring areas through currents: billfish like poor Chlor waters and rich in oxygen (Chlor: between 0.05 and 0.40 mg/m3), the aguas vierdes (Chlor: between 1 and 6 mg/m3) are a constant threat, but through monitoring and satellite service, the lodge could take in advance countermeasures, which means sometimes moving also 50mi away from the point of fishing the day before, if the search of the fish requires it. The currents are mainly related to the fishing quality, as in a few hours hard currents can move huge masses of water that can definitely affect fishing (positive or negative, depends). Furthermore, the current conditions make a spot better or worse depending on its direction and intensity. The catch reports are important, and from this point of view the fleet of the various lodge in Puerto Iztapa has a comrade spirit, as they use to say, so there are no secrets or jealousy among different captains and often also a report of “no fishing” is instrumental in order to understand how the fishing is going on around the spots.
Unlike other countries, frenzies over the sea with huge masses of birds are not so glamorous, although flocks of porpoises are quite common under which sometimes Yellowfin tuna in football sizes from 15-25lbs swim, but in the post raining periods, many logs can be found that the captains will work well searching for Dorados, but also for billfishes, that are often not so far from these aggregation centres.
Marlin in the Guatemalan Pacific Ocean can be caught, Black, Striped and above all, Blues sized between 300-600lbs. Niels Erichsen told us that the potential of this spot for marlin can be much higher if the boats decided to go hunting for them, thus changing lures configuration/size and speed trolling, and, at the end of a week, catch some sailfish less, but marlin more as bonus could be something that gives added value to fishing, so “they are working for us in this direction!”
Technically, the fishing is performed with a rod set that includes two long rods with kona and ballyhoo and two short teaser and two other teaser on captain outriggers. The aim is to be effective, but to try to make the fishing as much spectacular as possible, raising and teasing the fish few metres from the boat and then fishing with bait and switch, with the angler feeding the fish while standing upright, experiencing a real “live” hooking.
Thirteenth Baktuns and el mundo perdido
One of the reasons that puts salt on this trip is the great natural and historical background of Guatemala and its Mayan heritage. Rivers of ink and speculations have been spent on this topic, but the heirs of this important pre-Columbian civilization point out that the date December 21, 2012 represents the end of a cyclic period, precisely called Baktun and the beginning of another according to one of the three Mayan calendars found. However, unlike any other Central American state of Aztecan origins (Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama) Guatemala is really permeated by this Mayan culture, from traditional clothes often daily worn, to the languages spoken! In fact 18 of 23 languages are of Mayan origins and some of these are taught in schools along with Spanish language. Visit this country without a trip to the biggest Mayan city, Tikal, would really be a shame.
An hour flight to Flores and then three or four hours immersed in the jungle, following paths already beaten by tourists from all over the world that before 1956 were completely hidden by the jungle. Today, thank to the University of Pennsylvania, some buildings of more than 4,000 mapped are visible, including the amazing temple IV and the temple of the great Jaguar. History and nature mixed together in a place where is possible to see the Toucans flying to drink just few metres from crocodiles lounging lazily, then various types of monkeys following you from the jungle top and coati (Nasua narica) sniffing around in search of small reptiles and insects of the jungle, such as the impressive red rump tarantula (Brachypelma vagans), a huge but completely harmless spider when you know how to gently treat her!
