Words By: Robert Wicks
Photos By: Robert Wicks and Greg Baker
This was an adventure that nearly didn’t happen. A week before fellow author Greg Baker and I were due to set off for Oman on a carefully planned research trip, I inadvertently tore my calf muscle and was forced onto crutches and several early morning physiotherapy sessions in the hope that the leg would heal. Then the day before departure, British Airways (BA) decided to cancel our flight to Dubai and I was beginning to wonder if we were doomed as we were on a very tight schedule to collect our bikes and there was a public holiday looming in the UAE. Luckily the swelling went down enough to get into my riding boots and BA got us onto an overnight flight at short notice so it seemed we were on our way.
“Passports please,” said the smiley Filipino lady at the hotel check-in desk. But alas, Greg’s passport had done a disappearing act. Now, we had a real problem. We cleared immigration and it wasn’t at the hotel or in the gear, so it could only be at the airport. A mad dash back, plus a visit to the airport’s police station and a call to the lost property office and Greg was reunited with his passport. It seemed like the adventure had started a little earlier than any of us had expected.
It had been a while since our last decent adventure together, so six months ago, Greg and I started planning an adventure in Oman. I had been spending a lot of time in the Middle East on business and it didn’t take long to realise Oman’s potential as an adventure riding destination. The country has one of the most spectacular scenery in the region and consequently offers some outstanding off-road riding.
With the support of KTM in Austria and their distributor in the United Arab Emirates (KTM Middle East) confirmed, we began planning a route that would offer us a real flavour of Oman, and before we knew it, we were packing our gear.
A day was spent in KTM’s workshop to prepare our bikes, a KTM 990 Adventure and the “beast,” a KTM 450 Rally bike that had competed in the 2012 Dakar Rally.
We had just over a week to cover a circular route starting in Dubai and heading north towards the impressive Omani enclave of Musandam with its jagged peaks and azure water located on the Strait of Hormuz just 40miles (65km) from the coast of Iran. From here we headed east along the coastal plain to Muscat and beyond to Ras al Hadd, before heading inland to the desert of Wahiba Sands and the spectacular scenery of the Al Hajar Mountains in central Oman, where we enjoyed some of the best riding of our lives.
Known as the “fjords of Arabia,” the route offered breathtaking scenery throughout. From the jagged cliffs that plunge into the Gulf of Oman to the resulting hidden inlets, each new corner on the road made us gasp for breath. Khasab was a good place to stop for fuel and food. The road to the top of the hills surrounding the Musandam Peninsula and down the other side to the fishing village of Khor Najd was the highlight of the first two days of riding. A close second was the picturesque campsite in an Acacia Forest.Campsites are neither prominent nor plentiful, but if you’re happy to forego the typical amenities of a shower block and a convenience store, then camping rough is the best option – and the cheapest too. Guest houses in the smaller towns and desert camps offer some respite from tented accommodation.
We left the isolated area of Musandam and re-entered the UAE before heading south to the Oman border crossing at Khatmat Milaha, just a short run from Fujairah on the east coast. Visas can be acquired at the point of entry into both the UAE and Oman. In addition to your UK licence, an International Driving Permit (IDP) is advised and available while you wait from selected post offices. You will need to purchase insurance at the border when entering Oman – not particularly expensive or time consuming. Officially a carnet (custom documents for goods or vehicles) is not needed for Oman. KTM had kindly prepared a carnet for each bike, but it was never asked for. If you are heading further afield and a carnet is needed, it can be purchased in Muscat.
The run down to Muscat gave the clearest indication of just how much money is being pumped into the country’s infrastructure. The road is significantly congested by extensive road works that look to be there for a while, but unfortunately it’s the quickest way to Muscat and the mountains.
Muscat is worth a visit though we spent more time in the adjacent area of Muttrah. Before the discovery of oil, Muttrah was the centre of commerce in Oman. Take time to visit the scenic port, the corniche road and extensive souq.
With the countless villages and towns along the coast, one got a real sense of the importance of the sea for Oman and how much the country depends on it, both now and in earlier times. Some 93miles (150km) beyond Muscat lies the picturesque village of Sur – renowned as a major dhow-building town, the very same vessels that were used for trade two centuries previously. By the 6th Century, Sur was an established centre for trade with East Africa, with local dhows setting sail for destinations as far as China, India, Zanzibar and Iraq. Be sure to drop by the shipyards who welcome visitors with great pride. Beyond Sur, also make time for a stop in either Ras al Jinz or Ras al Hadd – the last point in the east of Oman – where the beaches are a well-known breeding ground for green sea turtles.
Our next stop and an opportunity to do some great desert riding, was at the Wahiba Sands. The region is named after the Wahiba tribe and it stretches to a boundary of 110miles (180km) from north to south and 50miles (80km) from east to west – an area of some 4,800sq miles (12,500km) of rolling and shifting dunes. We entered the desert at Al Mintarib and spent a night at the Al Raha Camp, which comes highly recommended for its great food and friendly service. There are other camps and these can be used as a great base for exploration of the desert, sand boarding, star gazing, meeting local desert folk and even testing your ability as a camel jockey!
If you’re feeling really adventurous, it is possible to cross the desert, but this will need some considerable preparation and unless you are a confident desert rider with good navigational skills, you will invariably need a local guide. A north/south crossing is advised as an east/west crossing is particularly challenging given the geographic layout of the dunes.
The desert lies at the south easterly tip of Oman’s famous Al Hajar Mountains (Arabic for stone mountains). This is the highest mountain range in the eastern Arabian Peninsula. They separate the low coastal plain of Oman from the high desert plateau, and lie some 30 to 60 miles (50 to 100km) inland from the Gulf of Oman coast.
The mountains start where we began our journey, in Musandam and run southeast parallel to the coast, but moving gradually further away as it goes. The central section of the range is the Jebel Akhdar, the highest and wildest terrain in the country. As we passed through the foothills, the dramatic scale of the surrounding mountains was clearly apparent and we knew we were in for a treat.
There are countless routes to consider, so it’s worth taking some time to research what you’d like to see and how best to make the most of your time in the mountains. Our two favourite routes were:
Jebel Shams – this 32miles (52km) route takes you to the highest point in the country at 9,872ft (3,009m) and the views of Oman’s own “Grand Canyon” are some of the most stupendous in the sultanate. It’s an incredibly rewarding ride up a fast-flowing piece of asphalt that seems to get steeper and steeper with every turn. Early on in the ride where the tarmac ends and the gravel begins, be sure to look across to your right for the abandoned village of Ghul, which sits partly camouflaged against the rock. Beyond this point, it’s a well-graded gravel road with wonderful views all the way to the summit.
Wadi Bani Awf – there is not a lot that can prepare you for the start of this ride. Think Stelvio Pass (Italy) on steroids! This was by far our favourite ride and undoubtedly one of the most spectacular rides in Oman, with the picturesque village of Balad Sayat as a must-see sight. If you start the wadi from the north, stop by at the Al Hoota Cave with its massive subterranean chamber. Riding conditions are challenging in places with sheer cliff faces and it’s difficult to keep your eye on the road given the amazing vistas. At 36 miles (59km) in length and given the undulating terrain, don’t underestimate the time it takes to complete the route and how quickly the light fades during the winter months.
After some of the best riding of our lives we reluctantly pointed the KTMs away from the mountains and towards the border crossing at Khatam Al Shikhla near Al Ain. In a stark contrast to the sights and sounds of the past week, we headed north and finished the journey with the sun setting on the spectacular Dubai skyline. We cannot recommend Oman highly enough – people are welcoming, the food is great, the fuel price is astonishingly cheap and most importantly, the riding is out of this world.
Tips:
At the first sign of wet weather, it is highly advisable to find high dry ground, shelter and stay put – flash floods move quickly and it is very easy to get trapped by washed out roads.
Consider fitting mousses to your tyres. If not, then maintain normal to slightly higher tyre pressures when riding in the wadis to prevent sidewall damage and punctures from sharp rocks.
Riding in the mountains and wadis of Oman is an unforgettable experience. The tracks are generally in good condition although they can be challenging if there has been a lot of rain.
Always test the depth and strength of any water crossing. If safe to cross then use a low gear, slightly higher revs than normal and a steady speed.
Oman is famous for its historic forts which are some of the country’s most striking cultural landmarks. Don’t miss Bahla Fort at the base of the Jebel Akhdar highlands – it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
When riding along rocky wadi beds, negotiate your path carefully so as not to leave the underside of your bike exposed (even with the benefit of a good sump guard).
Information:
Distance: You’ll want a minimum of a week to cover a circular route starting in Dubai, taking in the impressive Musandam Peninsula, heading east along the coastal plain to Muscat and beyond to Ras al Hadd, before heading inland to the desert of Wahiba and the spectacular scenery of the Al Hajar Mountains in central Oman. We covered 1,620miles (2,600km) in seven days of riding. This circular route will certainly give you a great flavour of the country and a diverse set of terrain to negotiate. Add 1,250miles (2,000km) and you can build in a run to and from Salalah – the “perfume capital of Arabia” and Oman’s second largest city – in the far south.
When to go: Given the oppressive heat between April and September, it’s best to travel between October and March when it’s cooler.
Where to stay: Campsites are neither prominent nor plentiful, but if you’re happy to forego the typical amenities of a shower block and a convenience store, then camping rough is the best option.
Paperwork: Visas can be acquired at the point of entry into both the UAE and Oman. In addition to your UK licence, an International Driving Permit (IDP) is advised and available while you wait from selected post offices. You will need to purchase insurance at the border when entering Oman.
Bikes: Rentals for this sort of adventure seemed to be few and far between for the moment so until this takes off. In case you want to find out more, get in touch with OutdoorUAE. Alternatively shipping your bike over is also an option with a reputable supplier.
Riding Conditions: Oman is an adventure riding paradise – there are no fences, just thousands of miles of uninterrupted off-road riding heaven. The smaller roads between rural towns are all in very good condition and often very scenic though you do have to be on the lookout for goats and the odd wandering camel.
Prices: Fuel is dirt cheap – it cost us less than 6 GBP (34.60 AED) to fill both bikes. There are nominal charges for camping and a hotel rooms start at 15 GBP (86.49 AED) a night.
