I’m one of those people who love the outdoors and the plethora of activities that they provide, yet I’m also becoming a bit of a wimp these days and although I do enjoy camping, I also like the occasional hotel break that allows me to shower and sleep in a comfortable bed when I’m not sliding down dunes or exploring mountain ranges. I was therefore looking forward to my stay at Sir Bani Yas Island, some nine kilometres off the coast of the UAE.
The largest natural island in the UAE (although the resorts are built on reclaimed land, partly in an attempt to protect the delicate natural coastline from the elements), Sir Bani Yas was named after the Bedouin tribe who once occupied the Emirate of Abu Dhabi. When Sheikh Zayed became the president of the UAE in 1971, he used it as a royal retreat before establishing it as a wildlife reserve in 1977. Thanks to this initiative and the work that is still carried out to this day, animals such as oryx, gazelle, and even giraffes and cheetahs call the island home.
The island also lends itself nicely to outdoor activities, with mangroves that ask to be kayaked through and exciting salt domes and limestone mountains that beg to be explored by bike. For the more sedate, there are wildlife drives and much easier biking routes around the outskirts of the island.
With the tantalising combination of exciting activities AND a good night’s sleep and hot shower in mind, we set off on the long journey via the E11 from Dubai. It was certainly an interesting drive once we had passed the familiar route to Abu Dhabi and entered into unchartered territory. The road, which is under construction and will be a proper highway once completed, was pretty scary with only two lanes; the slow lane seemingly reserved for lorries and trucks whilst tailgaters attempted to overtake us despite the fact that there was no room in which to do so. We did however get a glimpse of the new railway line and the numerous oil refineries as we made our way to Jebel Dhanna, where we were to board the ferry for a short 20 minute ride to the island itself.
The stress of the journey washed away as soon as we entered the ferry terminal at Jebel Dhanna, and we were conveniently able to check into the hotel from there, rather than waiting until we arrived on the island. Refreshments and cold towels were provided, and we relaxed before boarding the ferry at 4:00 p.m.
Before much longer, we were on the island being transported to our accommodation at Desert Islands. Anantara are the only hotel chain on the island, and provide three different resorts. As well as Desert Islands, which is good for families, there are also beach villas at Al Yamm and a nature lover’s paradise at Al Sahel villas. We were greeted by friendly staff and a delicious juice before being shown our room. The room itself was clean and spacious, with plenty of tea and coffee facilities, and of course the all-important free WiFi. We were slightly disappointed with our balcony, which offered sea views when standing but unfortunately felt very “closed in” when sitting down.
After dinner, we returned to our room to get a good night’s sleep – the bed was incredibly comfortable – ready for a hectic day of activities ahead.
Day One
Wadi Walk
We awoke to a rainy day, which actually made for perfect wadi walk conditions despite the threat of a storm. The dark clouds in the sky added an atmospheric feel and the different colours of the rocks in the wadi appeared brighter after rain the previous evening. Our guide, Laura, was very enthusiastic and certainly knew her stuff, explaining the reasons for the different colours and describing how the wadi and its layers were formed. Hyenas used to live in the wadi, and evidence of their existence was seen in what used to be their dens – bones of their prey enjoyed long ago, some of which were still recognisable skeletons. We thoroughly enjoyed our walk and finding out more about how the island was formed.
Archery
Located close to the entrance of the wadi, our next activity was archery. After a quick recap of how to use the equipment, we started off with the targets that were closest, and therefore easiest to score on. There were three “levels” — each one getting progressively harder as the targets moved further away. By this time, the wind was increasing which made hitting the bull’s eye (and indeed the board) more and more difficult!
Land Sailing
Unfortunately, this was cancelled due to the high winds that developed in the afternoon, much to my husband’s disappointment.
Wildlife Drive
We had originally intended to explore the island on horseback, taking in the wildlife as the sun set. However, we were informed that horse riding was run by a third party company, and came with a cost of 500 AED each. With this in mind, we opted instead for a wildlife drive, again with Laura as our guide. The drive was comfortable and offered many photo opportunities, as well as a chance to learn more about the animals on the island and the conservation work that is carried out there. We saw three different types of oryx, including of course the familiar Arabian Oryx, and hundreds of gazelles. Perhaps the most impressive sight was that of two cheetahs who had recently had a feed, and were no doubt feeling lazy and full, reclining on a sand bank just a couple of metres away from our car. We also saw giraffes with their young and countless other animals. As the sun set, it was hard to believe that we were still in the UAE, as there was a very “African” feel to the landscape.
Day Two
Mountain Biking
The weather was beginning to improve on our second and final day on the island, and thankfully it was not too windy to go mountain biking. Our guide, Rafik, was full of energy and enthusiasm as he kitted us out with our bikes, which were in great condition, and gave us water for the trip. We were told that the ride would be about 15-18km, depending on the conditions, and that we would have a pretty impressive view of the island from the mountains in the middle. We soon entered the park and found ourselves on a gravely, sandy track that was easy to ride on. Gazelles and oryx stared at us with curiosity as we made our way past them and began slowly climbing. The cool morning air and the endorphins from cycling had us all in a good mood, and we even managed to conquer a steep hill without getting off to walk! The view at the top was well worth the effort, and after exploring some more we had the fun task of going back down. By far, this was the most enjoyable activity of the trip!
Kayaking
After breakfast, we checked out of our room, and the hotel very kindly arranged for our bags to be dropped at the jetty so that we could enjoy some kayaking through the mangroves before leaving the island. Having both kayaked before, we were really excited about getting on the water again. Both single and double kayaks were available, and we opted for the singles so that we could go to different paces. After putting on the safety equipment, we paddled for about 15 minutes through very shallow water before entering the mangroves. The stillness of the water and the overall environment allowed us to feel fully relaxed as we kayaked along slowly, taking in the nature that surrounded us. Although we did not see many fish, we did see several flamingos up close, their bright pink wings forming a contrast to the grey sky as they took flight when we got closer. We also saw ospreys nesting on our way back to the shore. After a short ride in the minibus, we were conveniently dropped off at the jetty, in time to get the 1pm ferry back to the mainland before driving back to Dubai.
The Verdict
The activities at Anantara’s resort on Sir Bani Yas Island would be ideal for families who want to encourage their children to get involved in the outdoors. The kayaking and mountain biking in particular would be a safe yet exciting introduction that the whole family could enjoy together. Those interested in geology would be fascinated to learn about the formation of the island, and of course nature lovers will be in their element. The resort at Anantara is a great place to relax and unwind whilst having the option to be more active if you feel like it. Whilst the activities on offer may not be adrenaline-fuelled enough for some, they are certainly great for families and couples who want something more than a beach staycation.
Words+Photos By: Rachael Bruford
