Growing up amid mountain ranges, I always felt a deep connection with nature. I need that periodic dose of wilderness. Even after moving to the Beautiful Dubai which we now call home, I never lost my connection with nature and head out hiking whenever I can.
Often, I look back upon my initial days of travelling, my rookie days when passion was abundant just like now but resources were limited. Every traveler or outdoor enthusiast has that one story which can be called the ‘Initiation’. I have my story from Ladakh – The Desert in the Sky.
Ladakh, one of the northernmost regions in the Indian state of Jammu & Kashmir. It nestles high in the Himalayan ranges, so high that the thin air is unable to support any vegetation. Most of the slopes remain covered in a thick blanket of snow throughout the year and reveal themselves for just a few months during the summer. These rugged, lifeless mountains with their narrow winding high roads have attracted motorists for decades. Ladakh is the Mecca of every motorist who is willing to risk everything just for a thrilling riding pleasure.
I was in my mid-twenties, with a fairly stable corporate job. My inner adventure devil would make its appearance every now and then and tempt me to venture into the wild. A Road trip to Ladakh isn’t your average holiday trip, it requires months of planning and arrangements. You must be ready to move when the season starts. The roads to Ladakh are only accessible between May till August and remain closed for the rest of the months due to heavy snow and landslides. Travelling during the peak season can still be tricky as the roads are often closed for maintenance or fresh landslides due to melting snow.
Considering all odds, I began planning for this ride of a lifetime and the first thing that I needed was a reliable Motorbike. The Royal Enfield Standard 350, was the perfect machine for the job and a true match for the rugged terrain. I bought a second-hand Royal Enfield and began restoring it right away with the help of a local genius. I also needed a partner in crime so I started selling the idea to some close friends but sadly for me, nobody was willing to buy the crazy idea. The plan was to start the Journey from New Delhi and reach Ladakh via Manali and return to Delhi via Srinagar, a total of roughly 1300KM. In an ideal scenario, this route should not take more than 10-12 days, but there are no ideal scenarios above 18,000 ft., one must be prepared for the worst. Soon I realized I should embark on this road trip alone, I was nervous! My bike restoration was complete, and during this process, I also learned a few bike hacks from my mechanic. Some basic skills such as changing a flat tire or changing wires and bulbs can prove to be lifesavers. I packed essential spare parts for the bike, as these can be hard to find in remote mountain areas.
It was mid-August and I hit the road with my ‘Tornado’, that’s what I named motorbike. My schedule got delayed by almost a month due to poor planning and also because I had to be extra cautious being a solo rider. People usually ride in packs, sometimes with the safety of a medic and mechanic. I had none of those! The road from Delhi to Manali and up to ‘Rohtang Pass’ is a bit touristy so there are plenty of Hotels and other luxuries. Riding was easy so far, I crossed Rohtang pass after 2 days of riding and reached Keylong, a small remote village in the mountains. It was dark by the time I reached here and I was a bit shaken by the cold winds and broken winding roads. The roads are swept away by frequent landslides and leave behind giant cracks& marshy swamps. Next morning, I filled the petrol tank and carried an extra 20ltr jar, there was not going to be another petrol station for next 400kms. The journey from here on was challenging as there were high mountain passes and unimaginable road conditions. Repair work in these places is extremely slow due to frequent weather changes. My next stop was supposed to be ‘Saarchu (14,070ft), crossing the ‘Baralacha La’ mountain pass (16,040ft.).
After some local advice, I decided to stay overnight at Paang, which I was told has better-tented facilities and a better point to make the final push to Leh, the capital city of Ladakh. The places between Keylong & Leh only have basic tented accommodation and Teahouses, offered by the local nomads. The situation is a lot better now with more and more tourist flocking the trails. As I continued my journey, I was greeted with magnificent views of the snowy peaks and glacial lakes. This was a paradise for any thrill seeker. I wasn’t the only rider here, groups of bikers passed by waving with joy. It was like a biker’s brotherhood and we were happy to see each other in this remote wilderness. We waved at each with happiness and satisfaction that we made it this far, not everyone has this pleasure as the mountains can be very choosy towards who rides here! Me and my Tornado pushed forward towards Paang, the thin air was starting to cause trouble in the ignition system. No oxygen, no ignition! Huge portions of the road were swept away by the gushing water from the melting peaks and what looked like small streams, nearly cost me my trip. One such shallow stream turned out to be deep water and nearly pushed me to the edge. Thankfully enough, a nearby road construction worker rushed to my aid and pulled me across. Riding solo is fun but in times like these, you miss a pillion rider. I made my way through the wet dirt tracks, often just pushing the bike through the marsh and reached Saarchu. Me and my bike were exhausted and decided to stay here instead of Paang. It was a long daunting night, I couldn’t sleep due to a severe headache and mountain sickness.
Next morning, still somewhat exhausted I hit the roads. Not wanting to push too much, I decided to stop at Paang which was just 75 KMs away and relax the rest of the day. Mid-way between Saarchu and Paang, my bike developed serious ignition problems and began to die on me. I couldn’t bring it back to life and the only option was to push the bike uphill. Extremely exhausted, I fell several times and didn’t even have enough energy to get back up. I would lie on the muddy roads for a few minutes, catch up on my breath and then rise again. This continued for several hours and finally, two local middle-aged women spotted me and helped to their nearby camp. These nomadic middle-aged women were a lot stronger then I imagined. Though somewhat rescued, this was just the start of my problems! I lost one of my bags which was tied to the bike and was too dizzy from altitude sickness to even notice it. All I had left was a bag full of spare parts and a first aid kit. The weather took a quick turn and began snowing for the next 2 days, blocking all the roads as a result. The nomadic lady was an angel in disguise and offered me to stay with her family all this time. She even got help from a nearby military station to fix my bike. Several people made attempts but we couldn’t bring the bike to life. After being stuck in Paang for 3 days, the weather cleared and a group of Australian riders arrived at the camp. Luck was in my favor this time, the group had a mechanic who could temporarily fix my bike. I hoped that my bike lasts till I reach Leh where I could get it checked properly. Next morning, I bid farewell to the local family and continued my journey towards Leh. I reached an endless flat area between two giant mountains, the mountains play games with you sometimes and I often felt an unexplainable pull. Completely memorized by their sheer size, I moved forward. Soon enough I realized the temporary solution gave up and my bike went dead on me again, I must have pushed it too much. I spent the next 7 hours by the Tornado under my makeshift plastic cover, protecting myself from the timely snowflakes. Many riders stopped to help me but they couldn’t do much. Finally, an empty pick-up truck offered to load my bike and gave us a ride. On the eighth day of my solo road trip, I reached Leh, Ladakh.
I spent the next one-week visiting places in Leh and the magnificent Nubra Valley, of course after completely fixing my bike. I was greeted by the heartwarming hospitality of the Leh people and never really felt alone. A group of backpackers joined forces with me and we decided to visit Pangong Lake, a beautiful wonder of nature that lies between the Indo-China boarder. We did face problems while riding up to the lake but this time I had a pillion rider. We took turns at riding and pushing the bike. Oh, I almost forgot to mention ‘Khardungla Pass’ (17,582 ft) one of the world’s highest motorable roads. This pass is what has been attracting riders from all over the world. I had lost count of dates/days in this short span of time and quite unwillingly I had to plan my return trip. Leaving Leh behind, I moved towards Kargil, dropping off a backpacker at ‘Lamayouro’, a unique Buddhist village completely unspoiled by the modern times. After Kargil, I spent a few more days at Srinagar, then Jammu and finally returned to Delhi. The journey took roughly 20 days as I crossed several villages, mountain passes, monasteries and people. I was a changed man not only physically but also spiritually! ■
Words + Photos by: Bishwaranjan Das
