For most people, Bali is a mystical island. Close to the Java Sea, part of Indonesia by rule but completely independent by feel, vibe and atmosphere. A surfer’s paradise that is also popular with trek seekers and culture lovers who go there to unplug and to be mesmerised by the numerous temples spread all over the island. Without a set schedule in mind, I jumped on an Emirates airlines flight for a 9 hour journey with stars in my eyes; I was finally going to Bali after thinking about it for years.
Once I landed in Denpasar (Ngurah Rai International Airport), I quickly cleared immigration (a non event), and jumped in the taxi that I had organised through the hotel. I highly recommend doing this as the myriad of independent drivers that greet you upon arrival can be quite daunting. I had looked at the map and the resort was only 70km away from the airport, which I thought would be covered in 45 minutes to an hour. I could not have been more wrong as the relentless traffic, very narrow roads and lack of discipline of the drivers made for chaos. Between stopping for dogs or cats, plowing in traffic jams like bulls rushing through the gates in Pamplona, as well as the generally poor conditions of the roads, it took over three hours to reach a very remote resort on the west coast of the island. The turn to the entrance had me concerned for a minute, as the road just stopped and we were bouncing on a gravel road at night, with trees lining the way to a minuscule open aired reception only reachable after stepping over some stones scarcely spaced over a lovely pond. The check in was expeditious and soon I was following a very friendly smiley man, dressed in traditional garb, on weaving paths with numerous sets of stairs poorly lit to my villa. Thankfully, they knew my approximate time of arrival and had turned on the lights in my villa. As we were approaching, the halo of torches created a safe heaven and lifted any concerns I had for my safety. The gentleman showed me around the villa and I was very impressed by the outdoor shower, which was completely private with its own waterfall at the back. After such a long trip I had only one desire, which was to sleep. This I did very peacefully after a hot shower and a bite of fruit in my room.
The next morning I set out for breakfast on the terrace, surrounded by birds and dragonflies. The fresh fruit salad was one of the best I have had in the world and the “American” breakfast was…not. But never mind. After admiring the sunrise over the ocean, I set out for a long walk on the black sandy beach to reach a lovely village some 3km away. I knew I only had a couple of days to relax before my trekking passion would take over, so I had to make the most of it. The day consisted of massages, yoga, relaxing in the pool and eating as much as possible all day.
I had arranged a scooter rental the following day to leisurely explore some of the temples, blessed trees (Bunut Bolong Holy Tree) and waterfalls in the area before relocating to Ubud for my Batur Climb. Besides the constant dust and crazy traffic, I had a lovely day of exploration and was even invited to a local traditional blessing ceremony as I arrived at Rambut Siwi’s temple right when they were about to start. Shortly after, looking for dinner, I stumbled on Medewi Beach, a surfer’s community. I was stunned to feel thrown back to the 70’s commune lifestyle with huts just built along the seashore and handsome young men and women sporting flowers in their hair and obviously enjoying life to the fullest. I unfortunately did not have time to stay and jump on the board but there is always next time, right?
At 8am the next day, my driver Sanjay and I started my trip to Ubud, where I would be based for the next three days. I decided on private transport with several stops along the way to see as much as possible, even if it meant seeing the famous sites crowded with other travel enthusiasts. The first stop was Tanah Lot, the temple by the sea that most of us have seen on postcards. Although it was melting hot and quite crowded, the site just possesses an ethereal, natural calming effect. A procession of monks was in progress and they slowly ascended the religious part of the site that is not accessible to foreigners. Their orange robes flowing in the wind created a stark contrast with the jutted black rocks emerging from the deep azure blue sea. Taking the time to observe them, I was in awe of the peaceful feeling that engulfed me.
We left for the next stop, Mengwi Temple, the Royal Temple with its typical Balinese towers. On the way I invited my driver and my guide for some suckling veal in a small stall along the road. I enjoyed it very much but couldn’t help wondering how it was going to affect my digestive tract… (luckily I had no problems!). The next stop was for coffee Luwak; the most expensive coffee in the world due to the fact that the coffee cherries have to be partially digested by the Asian palm civet. Sanjay stopped at a coffee plantation that offers to show the whole process and even gives one the chance to play with one of the baby civets. I normally do not support that kind of operation since I am very aware of animal rights, but that particular plantation was known for their good treatment of the animals. I did enjoy the sweet taste of the coffee but I am not sure about drinking it every day. By now, we had one more temple to visit and a detour to a poor village so I could donate some money and what I brought with me to the villagers who literally have nothing.
It was a quick dinner and off to bed, as the next day our morning departure was set for 01.30. Right on time, my driver showed up and we drove to the starting point, which was one and a half hours away. Once there, confusion reigned as the message had not been delivered and my guide had not yet arrived. It was pitch black, and as I waited in anticipation, I heard German, French, Polish and Mexicans around me, all as eager to climb as I was.
Finally, Estewae, my guide, arrived and off we went at the front of the line, climbing in the dark with head torches lighting only a few meters ahead. The climb was mildly challenging, mostly due to the wet terrain, as although the incline was steep, my heart rate stayed low and I was climbing with little effort. On the way we passed several temples, which were more or less stone piles that my guide had to worship for good luck before we were allowed to continue. I sat by his side and took several deep breaths while silently feeling grateful for the opportunity I have to climb all over the world.
We made it to the top quite quickly and had to wait for sunrise for a couple of hours. It was very windy and cold there and we huddled together for warmth while sharing travelling stories. The group was invited by a older man to his villas in Mexico. I kept asking about breakfast but was told to wait a little more as the cooks had not made it to the top of the mountain yet. When they did, we happily cooked our own eggs in the fumaroles while they brewed our coffee. We were also given a mashed banana sandwich that one of the stray dogs stole from me! The light started to appear on the horizon and the sunrise was worth the wait. The sun’s rays grazed Mount Agun to the East and reflected on the lake down below. The sides of the crater looked nearly photo luminescent, so green was the grass growing on these parts. The temperature finally rose and the sun kept changing the colours around us. Clouds, blue skies, grass and brown earth all contrasted with one another and I felt sad to have to leave this beautiful place.
The way down, as always, was not so much fun and the terrain was muddy and slippery. The slopes on the other side of the crater got the better of my boots (the lace rivets broke down and I had to get a new pair after the trek). Midway down, Estewae needed to worship in a small crevasse along a ridge, so off we went, crawling in a very narrow rocky cave sparsely covered with
stalactites and stalagmites. After ten minutes, we reached a very small altar and switched our headlights off. It was pure darkness and silence in the bowels of the mountain, and the only distraction was a water droplet falling here and there. We stayed for what seemed like hours but in reality was probably only five or ten minutes. Then, we switched our lights back on and crawled back out of this deep crevasse under the volcano.
From that point onwards, the incline was quite easy on the legs and my next stop was going to be Kuburan Terunyan, a cemetery where people are not buried but rather layed to rest in the open air to decay in the elements. Legend has it that a very fragrant tree, the Taru Menyan from the Banyan family, masks the odor of the decaying corpses, but I have to say I do not find it to be true. It was fascinating though to witness the different beliefs that people have all over the world and how the villagers come to eat with their deceased loved ones and bring them gifts for the afterlife.
Crossing the lake to come out and return from the cemetery was very welcome as the fresh air cleaned my nostrils out. On the way back to my hotel I stopped at the Pura Tirtha Empul, (water temple), where people came to bathe in groups and prostrate themselves under holy water. The weather was dreadful with pouring rain, and after consulting with my guide it was decided that climbing Agun was too dangerous and that this would have to be postponed. Running out of time, I had to fly back to Dubai and plan another trip to Bali for Agun… Batur got my boots but I have a new pair and they are ready for Agun in the not too distant future.
Coffee Luwak
The number one most expensive coffee in the world is made from the number two of the jungle cat. Kopi Luwak, aka Bali jungle ‘cat poop coffee’ is produced in the jungles of Bali. After spending about a day and a half in the civet cat’s digestive tract, the partially digested beans are expelled in clumps through the defecation process, thus gaining the alias ‘cat poop coffee’. The collected beans are harvested, washed and roasted. Believe it or not, the coffee has a smooth flavour with a hint of caramel!
Words + Photos by: Anne-Elizabeth Cecillion
