A get you started guide for people who want to start outdoor rock climbing in the UAE or who are already climbers and have just moved or are visiting here.
Health & Safety Warning and Disclaimer
Before you read on, the health and safety warning. Rock climbing, whether in the UAE or anywhere else in the world, is dangerous and its potential participants should only get involved in the activity if they accept that there are risks that may result in fatal or serious accidents if they are not managed. Like all “extreme sports” these risks are part of the appeal of the activity and contribute significantly to the buzz achieved from participation. It is the personal responsibility of participants to understand the risks and to ensure that they are correctly equipped and have the technical knowledge to make informed decisions in order that they can identify and manage those risks. The author of this article takes no responsibility for actions taken by readers whether based on information herein or from other sources; you climb at your own peril.
Aim of Article
This article is designed to be an introduction to climbing in the UAE and a start point for further research. It is not a substitute for the UAE Climbing Guide providing topos of climbing areas or a technical manual on how to climb.
Guide Book
There is a Climbing Guide to the UAE titled UAE Rock Climbing. It is available direct from Global Climbing direct, Go Sports in Mall of the Emirates and Ibn Battutu Mall and for those outside the UAE, Amzaon.com
Where to Climb
Within the UAE and the border region between UAE and Oman there is significant potential for recreational rock climbing and in the last ten years there has been considerable development of some crags. However, there is undoubtedly scope for more routes on identified crags and new crags to be found. The general areas where climbing has taken place are as follows:
• Wonderwall, in the border area between UAE and Oman 40km beyond Al Ain.
• Al Ain, some development has occurred on crags near Al Ain, these should be considered works in progress for the moment.
• Hatta. And just to confuse you the climbing is not in Hatta but in the Oman salient on the Dubai to Hatta road.
• Ras Al Khaimah (RAK). The largest concentration of climbing is within the Emirate of RAK.
• Dibba area. Dibba gives access to DWS on the Eastern side of the Musandam Peninsular and significant climbing locations inland on Wadi Al Bih route.
• Musandam Peninsular (Oman). An unknown number of crags have been explored in the Musandam Peninsular and one has been developed north of Kasab.
Type of Climbing
In the above areas there are traditional routes ranging from single pitch to almost alpine in scale, sports routes up to three pitches in length, bouldering and Deep Water Soloing (DWS). The vast majority of UAE climbing is done on single or two pitch routes.
Rock and Climbing Character
The rock that is climbed on in the UAE is predominately limestone. Unlike many other limestone climbing areas of the world it has not been subjected to weathering from water or freeze-thaw effects. This has resulted in surface rock that is frequently brittle, can be very sharp and potentially unstable. Below the surface layer, the rock is generally hard but can be fractured like many limestones. So what you may ask? Some thoughts and considerations:
• There is potentially an abundance of loose rock on and around the climbing crags. Even on cleaned routes there is always the possibility that further rock may become detached, albeit small pieces. Helmets are highly recommended and should be considered essential at the bottom of the crags.
• All fixed gear should be treated with a sceptical eye, this includes bolts. Whilst bolts have been placed in accordance with current best practice you are responsible for making a judgement on whether they are safe.
• On the longer multi-pitch routes, loose rock is to be expected so be prepared for it.
• Considerable skill and practice is required to confidently place traditional protection. Do not push your limit until you are familiar with the characteristics of the climbing and the rock features.
• Many of the traditional routes away from the popular crags and harder routes on popular crags see few ascents; take a pioneering spirit with you.
• Whilst the walk-ins to the popular crags are short they are generally in rough unforgiving and steep mountain terrain. Maintain your vigilance at all times and in particular at the top or descending from crags.
• If you are going to develop new routes, especially one or two pitch ones, then clean them prior to first ascents or they will not see repeats or be of interest to the general climbing community.
• The rock is hard on clothing and equipment, it is not recommended to wear your new designer crag rat clothes if you value them.
Grading Systems Used
The following grading systems have been used on climbs:
• Sports Routes: French
• Traditional: British
• Bouldering: V
Equipment
Sixty metre ropes are sufficient for the vast majority of routes; double ropes may be considered for some traditional routes. For sports climbing you will need up to 15 QDs and a few longer slings. For traditional climbing, a varied rack including cams and nuts is recommended with a few extra medium sized nuts on wire. There are a variety of lower offs at the top of sports routes so be prepared for lower off chains through to two normal bolt hangers. If you are planning to top rope off lower off chains it is requested that the rope is fed through a screw gate carabineer to preserve the in-situ rings. You can purchase all the climbing equipment that you will require here in the UAE from either Go Sports or Picnico; these outlets are all within Dubai but it is anticipated that an Abu Dhabi outlet will be available soon. If you can not find what you are looking for then contact the author direct (this is not a substitute for you driving to Dubai).
When to Climb
It is possible to climb year round; this may come as a surprise. During the summer months it is recommended to move inland to Hatta and Wonderwall or the crags in Wadi Al Bih. Whilst the temperatures will be in the mid 40s the humidity is a lot lower than on the coast. From October through to April it is possible to climb on all the crags. Apart from the winter months, it is strongly recommended to avoid climbing in the sun. For the DWS enthusiasts, water temperatures in summer will be mid 30s and in the late winter (February) will fall to a chilly 20 degrees or so. There are likely to be a couple of days of rain during the winter months and the risk of thunder storms year round in land; just make sure that you stay clear of wadi bottoms during and immediately after any rain.
Access
The local population are generally hospitable to climbers and the number of adverse situations has been minimal. Please avoid parking in villages and camping on what may be pasture/farmed land. The right of access to climbing locations is untested and hopefully will remain so. Please ensure that you conduct yourself in a dignified fashion at all times. In the event of a locally requesting that you move on, it is strongly requested that you do so promptly and without argument. After all, if in his opinion you are not taking him seriously he may return and shoot you.
Litter
Dropping litter is a national sport in the UAE and there is a strong case for it to be made an Olympic sport as there is no doubt the gold medal winning nation. Please take all your litter home with you (cigarette butts and water bottles included).
Vehicle
The majority of the current climbing locations are accessible by 2WD or you can get close enough not to require a 4WD vehicle.
I hope the above has not put you off climbing in the UAE, because there is a wealth of quality climbing out there. Some of it is choss but there are a lot of good routes out there and some are outstanding. Climbing here is adventurous and not as accessible as going to a climbing wall although some of the crags have shorter walk-ins than from the car park to the wall.
Forum and Next Steps
The UAE climbing forum should be your next stop to find more information and partners. Use this as your primary information source and do register and meaningfully contribute to it. For those of you who have only previously climbed on indoor walls I would urge caution before throwing yourself at the nearest cliff without getting some informed guidance. The similarity between indoor and outdoor climbing is compatible with the difference between driving a peddle cart in the yard and a Land Cruiser blind folded on the SZR at rush hour.
Qualified Instruction
If you are looking for qualified instruction on basic climbing, technical skills or learning to lead sport or traditional routes then contact the author direct.
Bolt Fund
If you want to assist with the development of UAE climbing then there is a bolt fund where voluntary contributions are always welcome to offset the significant personal contributions that the route developers make themselves. To contribute, again, please contact the author direct.
Photos
The photos are not captioned as they are eye candy to wet your appetite to the wealth and diversity of climbing available here. Only through getting involved, getting out there and exploring will you find the treasures that await you. Some of the fun is that journey and I would not want to deprive you of that.
Possible Useful Links and Contacts
The author, Pete: info@globalclimbing.com
UAE Climbing Forum: http://www.uaeclimbing.com/forum/
Toby FK climbing site for selected tops: http://www.foordkelcey.net/uae/
Grading Systems Conversion Tables: http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html
And http://www.rockfax.com/publications/bgrades.html
Weather Forecasts: (RAK) http://www.wunderground.com/global/stations/41184.html
Climate and Sea Temperatures: http://www.dubaiairport.com/dubaimet/MET/Climate.aspx
Tide Tables: http://www.myforecast.com/bin/tide_list.m?city=50039&metric=false