As the plane descends towards Salalah airport in southern Oman, I gaze down over the rugged but beautiful Dhofar Mountains. It seems hard to believe that life exists here as there is little vegetation or water, but once on the ground and heading to base camp in a convoy of Land Rovers and pick-ups, fragrant Frankincense and spiky Acacia trees dot the rough, desolate slopes of the wadis (dry river beds).
Regular shouts of “look there’s a camel” or disbelief as a group of camels amble across the road, oblivious to the traffic, fill the Land Rovers. Local Omanis are used to these sights, flicking their hazard lights on to warn drivers, but for us, it’s a real delight and we never tire of seeing camels and goats grazing by the sides of the roads. The Land Rovers arrive at the edge of Wadi Uyun, our base camp for two weeks. We all pile out and take in a great photo opportunity, the first of many that seem to get more beautiful as the days go by. Below us lies the wide wadi, littered with vegetation, and the stillness is only broken by a few camels, and a fleeting glimpse of ibex. The excitement and anticipation to get going is evident so the vehicles head down into the wadi and we catch our first sighting of the dome tents and main Bedu tent.
This is the first day on the Biosphere Expeditions Arabian Leopard project in the Dhofar Mountains. For most of the volunteers, myself included, this is a unique opportunity to participate in scientific research with little or no previous knowledge or experience, but still provide an invaluable role in collecting data and monitoring the “On our conservation expeditions you will explore fascinating parts of the world, have fun, a lifetime adventure and a real hands-on experience of working on wildlife conservation volunteering projects.” presence of the Arabian Leopard and their prey species in the mountains areas. As the Biosphere Expeditions website states: Plus, I’m with a great group of people from around the world, I’m visiting places that I would never have normally considered visiting, and playing a small but important part in this conservation project.
The Arabian Leopard, known locally as the Nimr, is the largest surviving cat species of Arabia. Listed as “critically endangered” in the IUCN List of Threatened Species, the Office of the Advisor for Conservation of the Environment of the Diwan of Royal Court began a survey of the Arabian leopard in Jabal Samhan Nature Reserve in the Dhofar in 1997, where a strong population has been shown to exist. The areas outside Jabal Samhan Nature Reserve, however, are virtually unstudied and Biosphere Expeditions has been asked by the Omani Diwan of Royal Court to survey these areas for leopard and its prey species. The expedition searches for leopard signs and attempts to camera trap the animals in prime leopard habitat, completing a wildlife inventory of the area, strengthening ties with local people and investigating historical records of leopard presence. We all quickly settle into camp life, enjoying the, almost predictable, warm sunshine and blue skies, and figuring out the washing and toilet facilities. We spend the first couple of days staring at examples of the scat of the leopard and its prey species, pictures of animal prints, and getting familiar with GPS’ and compasses.
I don’t think any of us imagined we would all be so fixated by poo, and be happy to spend the next few days staring at the ground and cheerfully collecting any samples. Our interest in the work is inspired by Tessa McGregor, the infectiously enthusiastic scientist; Khalid the local guide who plays a vital role as guide, translator, and representative for his country, working tirelessly; and Ronald Seipold, the encouraging and good-humoured expedition leader. “During the training days, there is also an opportunity for off-road driving.” All three patiently and good-naturedly spend time guiding us through our jobs for the next two weeks, always happy to answer any questions, and their enthusiasm and passion for the expedition is clearly evident. During the training days, there is also an opportunity for off-road driving, a chance readily accepted by many of the volunteers, who quickly become competent off-road drivers. After the initial training, we are split into small groups and let loose in the ‘field’ to put out our scat and track spotting skills to the test. All the surveys are carried out in wadis and gorges surrounding Uyun but most require a journey in the Land Rover to reach (the vehicles make easy work of the uneven surfaces and steep slopes). On our first surveying day we travel up Wadi Uyun in the vehicles, and then spread out over the wadi floor, gazing intently at the ground for signs of scat, tracks, remains of prey kill, fur balls or any other evidence that proves the presence of the Arabian Leopard.
We have success with several tracks found including Blandford’s fox, porcupine, rock hyrax, ibex and gazelle. Seeing the tracks on the ground gives a real sense of achievement, and we all gaze more intently at the ground for further signs. Findings are recorded on data sheets, photos taken if appropriate and this information is then collated back at base camp, with a feedback each evening before dinner on that days’ findings. All three patiently and good-naturedly spend time guiding us through our jobs for the next two weeks, always happy to answer any questions, and their enthusiasm and passion for the expedition is clearly evident. During the training days, there is also an opportunity for off-road driving, a chance readily accepted by many of the volunteers, who quickly become competent off-road drivers. After the initial training, we are split into small groups and let loose in the ‘field’ to put out our scat and track spotting skills to the test. All the surveys are carried out in wadis and gorges surrounding Uyun but most require a journey in the Land Rover to reach (the vehicles make easy work of the uneven surfaces and steep slopes).
On our first surveying day we travel up Wadi Uyun in the vehicles, and then spread out over the wadi floor, gazing intently at the ground for signs of scat, tracks, remains of prey kill, fur balls or any other evidence that proves the presence of the Arabian Leopard. We have success with several tracks found including Blandford’s fox, porcupine, rock hyrax, ibex and gazelle. Seeing the tracks on the ground gives a real sense of achievement, and we all gaze more intently at the ground for further signs. Findings are recorded on data sheets, photos taken if appropriate and this information is then collated back at base camp, with a feedback each evening before dinner on that days’ findings. “I have never ever had so many leopard findings to state on one data sheet!” bothered by the sudden flurry of cameras as numerous photos are taken – well how often do you have breakfast or dinner with a camel?! We are all reluctant to leave the wadi, though as a final farewell on our journey back to Salalah we witness six vultures and two eagles feasting on the remains of a goat. I’m sure many of us will be back to this beautiful part of the world.
Katie Bunting.
This expedition runs between 6 – 18 February and 20 February – 4 March 2011 (12 nights).
More information at www.biosphere-expeditions.org/oman
Info: The Arabian leopard (Panthera pardus nimr) is a leopard subspecies native to the Arabian Peninsula and considered critically endangered with less than 200 animals remaining in 2006. Classified as endangered in 1994 and as critically endangered in 1996 the Arabian Leopard is listed in the Appendix I of CITES. The Arabian leopard is the smallest leopard subspecies. The leopard Panthera pardus is one of the most widely distributed and adaptable big cats in Oman. This cat has pelage hues that vary from pale yellow to deep golden or tawny and are patterned with rosettes. At about 30 kg (65 pounds) for the male and around 20 kg (45 pounds) for the female, the Arabian leopard is much smaller than all of the African Leopard and Asian subspecies.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arabian_Leopard
