Words + Photos By: Helen McClure from expatexplorers.org
I’m scrambling up a cliff face following two little mountain goats. But these goats don’t have four legs, only two. And they are my daughters aged six and four.
I had reservations about attempting an adventurous walk with such young children, but they have put me to shame, and hailed this wander up the wadi the best part of the holiday. Surely that is the definition of success.
We had just five days to tour around the Al Hajar Mountains in Oman, and we soon discovered that we could have taken weeks if we’d had the luxury of time. Starting in Dubai, we made our way to the border behind Al Ain and took the road to Ibri. Brown signs pointed the way to several forts and castles, but we had our sights set on the Saiq Plateau, accessed via Birkat Al-Mawz, east of Nizwa, where you pass a police checkpoint – no 4×4, no access.
The roads have been upgraded, and although the way was steep, with switchbacks zigzagging all the way to the top, it was an easy drive, with spectacular views. There is an easy walk (route W18b) from the Sahab Hotel that takes you down the valley, along the falajs (traditional water courses) and through groves of pomegranates and hillside villages. If you’re a guest of the hotel they will pick you up when you’ve had enough. If you’re feeling more adventurous, you can keep walking to the deserted village of Wadi Bani Habib, which is worth a trip by car in any case. The crumbling stone and mud structures, abandoned in the wadi, are like gravestones marking a disappearing and isolated way of life.
For our second night, we came down the mountain and headed for the Wahiba or Sharqiya Sands: rolling dunes of gold, which stretch for miles. We made ourselves at home at the Desert Nights Camp, 11km off road from Al Wasil. Our daughters were used to camping in the desert, but they were surprised to see beds and flushing toilets in a tent. Think “glamping,” more than camping. It’s a great way to spend a couple of nights.
From here we took a day trip to Wadi Bani Khalid to scramble around and swim in the rock pools, and then made our way to the coastal town of Sur. We walked up to the spit of land at the mouth of the lagoon and flagged down a little boat, which ferried people back and forth the waterway. Mubarak, our ferryman, had lived in Sur all his life and gave us a little insight into the development of the town, which is a popular holiday destination for Omanis. He took us to the sandbars in the middle of the lagoon and then back up the water way to the opposite spit of land, where the village of Al Ayjah sits perched on the edge.
Given its remote position, it remains largely untouched, but the traffic now thunders over the new bridge and a major road skims its edges. There is a lighthouse at the mouth of the lagoon, and pretty white low-rise buildings, broken periodically by mosque minarets. In the centre, a fort proudly stands, guarded by two cannons, and surrounded by frisky goats who jump on and off parked cars. Remind me not to park where goats roam.
Our stop for the night was the Turtle Beach Resorts at Ras Al-Hadd. The resort arranges nightly trips to a nearby turtle beach. We followed a snake of cars, led by a local guide. I had anticipated the excitement of seeing these gentle giants in the wild, but I don’t think I really appreciated how big they are. The one we met, and eventually followed into the sea, was about a metre long; given that its babies are only about six centimetres, the circle of life can be a little strange.
Our final adventure was at Wadi Ash Shab. Billed as one of the greatest walks in Oman, we were not disappointed. After crossing the wadi in a boat, the walk is easy going, passing several plantations and rock pools. The way gets steeper, and the rocks get bigger. At one point you walk along a ledge in the rock face, difficult but not impossible with children. The finale is, however, not suitable for young children or weak swimmers. At the last rock pool you have to swim 50m to a small gap in the rock face, which you either squeeze through or swim under, reappearing in a small cave with a waterfall flooded with light. It’s a fantastic reward.
This is a trip I would return to, each time finding new paths to explore. And as for my mountain goats? They are already looking at maps in search of their next adventure.
Accommodation:
Day 1: Sahab Hotel on the Saiq Plateau. The view from here is worth the visit alone. This small but spacious hotel has 27 well appointed rooms, opening onto a fossil garden with a beautiful mountain top swimming pool. We stayed in a two room rustic suite, where the sofa double as a bed for the children. The restaurant offers an a la carte menu at lunch time and in the evening there is a buffet. There is also a buffet, with an egg and pancake station, at breakfast, which can be enjoyed on the veranda. The staff are welcoming and knowledgeable. www.sahab-hotel.com
Day 2 and 3: The Desert Nights camp 11km from Al Wasil is a great oasis in the middle of the dunes. The permanent en-suite tents, with electricity and water, really ensure even people who don’t like roughing it will be comfortable. The site has 26 tents, a bar and a restaurant. Each evening and at daybreak you can watch the sun dancing along the dunes. There is a full range of extra activities from dune bashing to sightseeing. www.desertnightscamp.com
Day 4: Turtle Beach Resorts at Ras Al-Hadd, hidden away down a dusty track and situated right on the beach, it is a quaint little place to stay, and the perfect location for trips to see the turtles. The rooms, made to look like Barasti huts, are basic, but clean, some with en-suites and air conditioning. There is an evening buffet on the veranda of the dhow restaurant, overlooking a calm bay, and despite being family-friendly, surprisingly peaceful. www.tbroman.com
Day 5: Spend your final day and night in Muscat – visit the souq at Mutrah, fish market on the Corniche, trek from Riyam to Mutrah (path C38) along a historic path that used to serve as the only way to get to Muscat other than by sea.
Essential reading:
Oman Trekking by Explorer
Oman Off-Road by Explorer
About the author:
Helen McClure is the journalist behind www.expatexplorers.org, a travel and expat website offering free independent insights, ideas and inspiration. Follow her on www.facebook.com/expatexplorers and www.twitter.com/expatexplorers.
Her travelling experiences have included backpacking in South America and the Far East, touring Europe in a camper van, working in villages in Africa, travelling with the British Army in Kenya, Oman and Northern Ireland, working in Saudi Arabia, living in Kuwait, Chicago and the United Arab Emirates. She is known for being sport mad (all sports), running long distances (just mad) and being competitive (in everything).
