Summer weather is well and truly with us in the Gulf and camping, whether it be beach or desert, can get a little too hot. So what’s an adventurer to do? Our answer for the past two summers was to“head for the hills”, or should I say, the Omani mountain, Jebel Akhdar.

It is less than a five hour drive from Dubai/Abu Dhabi, making it a great destination for a weekend escape if you can free yourself from the shackles of work mid-afternoon on a Thursday. To get there, firstly make your way to the Mezyad/Hafeet Border crossing in Al Ain, and once clear of that it should take you around 3 hours to reach Nizwa, onetime capital of Oman and today the location of a huge Lulu Supermarket, which is your last chance to stock up on food and camping accessories before heading up the green mountain.

The road from Nizwa to the top of Jebel Akhdar is tarred and crash barriers line the drops all the way, but only 4 wheel drive vehicles are allowed to drive on it. Drivers encounter a police checkpoint (where they must register) early on the route, and it is at this point that 2WD vehicles are turned back. As you would expect, the road itself climbs and winds its way through some jaw dropping terrain, and there are parking areas at the most spectacular viewpoints.

It is important to make sure that your car’s cooling system is in tip top condition, as the constant climbs require consistently high revs and it’s not unusual to see one or two broken down cars near the top.

On our very first visit to Jebel Akhdar we came across a “scenic park” and we have returned to camp here each year. Situated at an altitude of 2300 metres, it is a massive area which gives room for a few groups to camp yet still retain privacy; head to the back of the site and do a little rock crawling along some very faint tracks to get away from everyone else. High up and away from large towns, on a clear night you can see thousands of stars appear in an inky black sky – and if you time your visit to coincide with the Perseid meteor shower in August then you are in for a treat!

So, apart from late night sky watching, what’s to do when you get there? First thing, park somewhere scenic, step out of your car, and appreciate how cool it is! While we are sweltering in 45-50C temperatures in the UAE, the mercury barely rises above 30C on the green mountain, and with temperatures of around 12-15C overnight you’ll want a campfire and will probably need to wear a jacket while you are sitting there enjoying it! You will unfortunately find lots of mosquitos in the area so don’t forget to pack a good insect repellent, ideally containing DEET.

If you are a cyclist, then take your bike as there are many roads and tracks to explore. If like me you are a casual walker, then there are several villages and oases to wander round and explore; there are also some treks over mountains and through wadis for those who are seeking more challenging walks.

My favourite walk is around the village of Al Ayn which is perched atop a cliff overlooking the famous Jebel Akhdar terraces. Cut into the hill many moons ago, the villagers grow a diverse range of crops; Omani rosewater is famous throughout the region and it is in these terraces that the roses grow in early spring, ready for a May/June harvest. Fruit and vegetables can also be found both on the terraces and in small oases such as the one beyond the village of Saiq; this is my second favourite walk in the area and you can see pomegranates, sweetcorn and apricots as well as a host of other produce competing for space in the small fruit farms. Add a few sleepy cats, a variety of birds and the odd amphibian and you have the perfect setting for some nature photography.

The offroad driver is well catered for too, with many mountain roads and tracks to explore. These can be found on the free map that is available at the border. Some tracks are very challenging to drive and most are not for the vertiginous, however if you make the effort to get far off the beaten track you will be rewarded with the sight of old houses built into hillsides, ancient villages in seemingly inhospitable territory and some amazing views.

If camping is not your thing, then you could consider hotel accommodation; there are a few hotels of different grades to choose from and you can find them all listed on booking.com. Spread your budget a little further by choosing to camp but eating out at a hotel – the terraces at both the Sahab and the Alalia enjoy stunning views.

Now, what about Ramadan, I hear you ask? Neil and I visited there mid-Ramadan in July 2014 and we have to report that it was almost deserted! It is unlikely that hotels will be serving food during the day, but if you self-cater there are many secluded places to sit and eat your snacks, well away from those who are fasting.

If you would like my route file you will find it, as well as the co-ordinates of services and other interesting places by logging onto this blogpost – http://thedesertdiva.com/2014/07/13/jebel-akhdar-in-the-summer/


Words + Photos by: Marina Bruce