There is something enchanting about shipwrecks, whether it is just due to the fact that it’s so unusual seeing something that would otherwise be above sea level, resting on the bottom of the ocean, collecting life and character, or maybe it’s the history that’s hidden within these vessels – what caused the ship to sink? Was anybody on board? Are there any hidden possessions within? Regardless, there is enchantment in these ruins that once glided on top of the ocean, transporting people, supplies, or maybe something precious —enchantment that draws divers from all around the world.

The Middle East is home to the birthplace of civilization, and home to many of the pioneers of modern society, including the pioneers of sea-going vessels. For centuries, Arabia has been engaged in the fishing industry, creating a culture of sea travel and ocean exploration. It’s with this culture that ships have been able to travel around the Arabian seas, from around the Persian Gulf, to the outskirts of Oman, and somewhere along the way, some of these ships have lost their seaworthiness and had consequently sunk or been sunk. As soon as these ships sink, they are transformed. No longer are they vessels transporting fish from Iran to the United Arab Emirates or ferries moving people from Bahrain to Qatar, they are now boundless playgrounds for any diver with a sense of adventure and an underwater flashlight. These are the Arabian wrecks.

article_arabianwrecks_01

If someone hasn’t experienced one of these fascinating phenomena, it would be hard to imagine the surreal effect of diving in a shipwreck. It’s almost similar to floating around the International Space Station, gliding through corridors and cabins that men and women once walked through and slept in, as they made their voyage. The feeling of weightlessness and of an absolute absence of gravity, together with the feeling of intrigue and fascination – makes the experience something worth remembering.

Although the experience is flooded with intrigue and fascination, there also lies an element of danger. Often within these wrecks, there are sharp rusted edges that jut out in narrow corridors, or loose objects suspended in the walls that could easily fall as a diver swims by or even the possibility of dangerous forms of marine life. In the Middle East especially, shipwrecks have a plentiful supply of honeycomb eels. Although quite timid, usually only sticking their head out of cracks without venturing out, getting too close to one of these wreck-dwellers could end badly – the danger made all the more significant when your swimming along one of the narrow hallways. With that, caution should certainly be taken when entering these underwater exhibits and the proper qualifications should be held.

article_arabianwrecks_05

Danger aside, the experience is magnificent. Lucky for those living in the Middle East, we have a plethora of shipwrecks at our fingertips to experience. One of the greatest wrecks here in the Middle East is the Al Munassir in Muscat, sunk in 2003 by the Royal Navy of Oman. This 3000-ton, 150ft vessel sits upright on the sea floor and given its length, the depths of this dive range from 6m to 30m. One of the greatest things about this ship is its durability, allowing it to stay virtually intact and complete, unlike a lot of wrecks, which fall apart and collapse. The site is only a short boat ride from the shore, or from one of the many dive operations based out of Muscat. As you descend below, toward the ship, the exterior becomes visible, starting off as an enormous shadow and eventually progressing into the mighty shape that few seagoing vessels can boast. On a calm day with clear waters, most parts of the ship are visible, and the sight is awe-inspiring. Certainly, seeing such a gargantuan object sitting on the bottom of the ocean isn’t usually something you get to experience on your average dive, but then again, this isn’t your average dive. With this vessel especially, large schools of snapper and goatfish tend to frequent the interior, often forming false walls on the deck or within the corridors, that as you swim into them, they slowly separate and allow you a path through. Fish like these and many others often hover around the inside of shipwrecks, as if they were just as fascinated with this alien object in their territory as we are, they remain still, suspended in their schools. Swimming past these schools and around the wreck, you’re able to take in and absorb the great expanse of the ship, investigate, study and examine the exterior and all the fine details of the craftsmanship, as well as the creatures that have made their homes in the walls.

Getting closer, and subsequently more curious, the urge to enter the legendary liner intensifies. Beginning on the deck, there are a number of routes that can be taken for an exploratory path around the ship. One of the greatest areas to spot life such as eels are along the semi-open corridors that run along either side of the ship, and from those, a direct path inside can be taken. There are a number of doors and holes that may look inviting, but before choosing one, it’s best to evaluate the point of entry that your equipment will have the least chance of getting caught on. When the path into the interior presents itself, the venture inside begins.

article_arabianwrecks_04

It’s often incredibly dark within these wrecks, especially if you travel quite far within, so in order to be able to examine the inner craftsmanship, as well as find your way out, it’s best to be equipped with an underwater flashlight. Entering the wreck with the flashlight directed forward, the first swim through is the most daunting, since you’re entering a world of uncertainty, with only one small faintly lit path in front of you. Depending on the activity within the ship, it’s not uncommon for a fish to quickly swim in front of you, reflecting the light that the inside of this vessel seldom sees with its polished scales – which can result in a little bit of a scare. Buoyancy control is of paramount importance while diving in these wrecks, too buoyant and it could lead to a cut on the back of the head from the rusted roof, too heavy and a dragging depth gauge could disturb a stationary eel resting on the floor. So moving through the wreck, observing the intricacy of the ship and concentrating on buoyancy will both need to be undertaken simultaneously. Whilst swimming through the corridors, it’s difficult not to imagine the state of affairs that would have been occurring along these corridors when the ship was sea-worthy and in full motion: passengers walking from room to room, crew members rushing through completing their duties or even the captain on his way to his post. And now, the corridors are flooded, dark and dilapidated. The only resident forms of life now are sea creatures, corals and aquatic plants. Where people once walked along, a diver now glides through weightlessly, in a darkness only broken by a single stream of light. The feeling of moving around the International Space Station comes back into mind, being suspended in a medium, unrestricted and free, and without the inconvenience of gravity. Why travel thousands of kilometres into space to feel an absence of gravity inside a metal metropolis when you can descend just a few meters below the ocean instead?

DCIM103GOPRO

The air inside the tank doesn’t last forever, so there comes a time when an exit is due. Either finding a new way or retracing the swim in, leaving the ship, the light returns, as does the buoyancy freedom. The schools of fish hovering over the deck are largely all still in place, as they were before going in. Moving away from the dormant vessel, its enormity and commanding authority over its surroundings becomes clear again. The awe-inspiring, mighty ship, although stationary, still expels power and intimidation over anything within its territory. Ascending, the ship becomes only a shape, and then soon just a shadow, as it waits patiently for its next visitors.

The Al Munassir is just one example of the many shipwrecks that are scattered throughout the Middle Eastern waters, all of which are waiting to be investigated, explored and celebrated. Wreck diving is one of the most exciting and intriguing forms of diving that should appeal to anyone with the qualification. It takes a normal dive and adds thrill, history and fascination. There is, like a lot of things, danger involved, but nothing that cannot be overcome with the necessary precautions. These wrecks are sunken containers of history, which should be studied and surveyed; the excitement involved is just a bonus. There are few places on this earth that haven’t been explored by man, making the world a very small place. These wrecks however are the outliers, with some of them having had very few divers explore them, so while the world hasn’t shrunk too much, and there is still unexplored pieces of history out there, go and find one, and discover the undiscovered.


Words + Photos: Jake Lyle